BUSINESS TALK
MARKET UPDATE
CHASER OPENS EUROPE OPERATIONS
The Rock’n’Roll inspired California lifestyle brand CHASER has expanded its operations to Europe throughout 2021. The Los Angeles-based group, Houston Salem Inc., has founded the Chaser GmbH, with its corporate showroom in Düsseldorf’s Kaiserswerther Straße, to grow its position in the European markets with direct management and faster logistics. For the upcoming Spring/Summer 2022 season, Chaser GmbH has strategic plans to present CHASER Women’s and Men's collections and launch its two other brands, SALTWATER LUXE and its Los Angeles denim brand SANDRINE ROSE. www.chaserbrand.com
TSVETNOY INVESTMENT AND EXPANSION
The investment group Bonum Capital became the sole owner of Tsvetnoy, one of the most iconic department stores in the center of Moscow. Opened in 2010, the department boasts 36.5 thousand square meters and houses over 1,000 brands, such as Sandro, adidas, Calvin Klein and DKNY. Bonum Capital plans to develop Tsvetnoy’s strategy for the next two years, with plans to launch an online marketplace by autumn and expansion to other major cities by 2022. www.tsvetnoy.com
CALVIN KLEIN X HERON PRESTON NEW COLLABORATION
The Heron Preston for Calvin Klein collection is inspired by traditions of utility and performance, drawing attention to our most trusted wardrobe staples and refining them with contemporary detail. The collection looks at the building blocks of the modern wardrobe in a collection for “real people” that is “essential but not generic”. True to both the Calvin Klein brand DNA and Preston’s personal approach to design, the collection is unisex, choosing self-expression over gender, and caters to body and identity inclusivity. www.calvinklein.com
WeAr 3/2021
CHINESE MARKETPLACE E-COMMERCE WINS
China is set to be the first country to see e-commerce sales surpass bricks and mortar in 2021. Some 52.1% of the country’s sales are expected to come from online transactions, according to research firm eMarketer. If the forecast bears out, this will be a major milestone for online commerce, marking the first time digital sales will account for most of all retail sales in any country worldwide. The figure also represents a significant jump from 44.8% of the country’s total sales in 2020.
12 STOREEZ X FARFETCH EXPANDING THE RUSSIAN MARKET
Farfetch continues its active expansion into the Russian market. In April, 12 Storeez became the first Russian brand to join the online marketplace, exceeding their sales expectation fourfold in their first month. Around 30–40% of sales came from Russia, while sales in new markets – such as China – showed increased brand awareness. “Farfetch makes the brand available almost anywhere in the world, including areas where it is now logistically unprofitable for us to deliver by ourselves,” notes Dilyara Khisamova, CEO Deputy of 12 Storeez.
12storeez.com www.farfetch.com
ALBERTO X MEGAMARSCH HIGH PERFORMANCE PANTS
Pant maker Alberto has teamed up with Megamarsch to develop a one-of-a-kind high-performance pant that meets the demands of long-distance hiking. Started in 2016, Megamarsch is an extreme walking challenge involving either a 100 km walk in 24 hours or a 50 km walk in 12 hours. The ALBERTO Hybrid Sports Pant is fit for the challenge: lightweight, water repellent, UV protected and quick drying, the garment features an anti-slip waistband and a breathable mesh lining. The limited-edition pants can be ordered exclusively from the Megamarsch online shop for 149.95 EUR. www.alberto-pants.com www.megamarsch.de
BY ROTATION X PAGE HOTELS FASHION MEETS HOSPITALITY
The rental market is gaining fast growth across luxury fashion, and a collaboration with the hospitality industry makes sense for the consumer who wants to make an impression on the move. As such, the UK sees its first rental concierge partnership between By Rotation and Page Hotels. Guests at the hotel will be able to benefit from pre-booked or in-room rental services from the popular rental platform, featuring looks from key designers such as Jacquemus, Ganni, Rixo and Burberry, at a fraction of the retail cost. byrotation.com
ANYA HINDMARCH EXPERIENTIAL RETAIL CONCEPT
Anya Hindmarch’s new retail concept ‘The Village’ opened on London’s Pont Street this May, comprising a collection of five neighboring Anya Hindmarch stores that allow visitors to shop, socialize, eat and drink. Equipped with spaces dedicated to sustainability and personalization, and a quintessentially British café, Hindmarch’s village concept will also host pop-ups, talks, events and sustainable collaborations, marking an ever-evolving, experience-focused venture for the brand in the heart of London. anyahindmarch.com
TUMI OUTERWEAR NEW INNOVATIONS
Tumi Outerwear is a luxury performance brand for customers on the move. Its designs are purposeful but elegant, using premium, sustainable materials with an eye on new technologies. Launching for A/W 21-22 is the Women’s System Puffer, a versatile, warm, modular jacket that can be worn in multiple ways. Its feather-light nylon materials not only protect against UV40+ rays but contain antimicrobial protection, featuring an antimicrobial neck gaiter stored inside the neck pouch, sealed with an invisible zipper. The System Puffer is also water-resistant and windproof, making it highly durable. tumi.com
LEVI’S 70S REVIVAL
A/W 21 is all about the 1970s at Levi’s, who are launching a new line of products for Fall. Taking inspiration from their Levi’s Orange Tab archives, the range, comprising the ’70s High Straight Slim, the ’70s High Micro Mini and the ’70s High Flare, promises to add “instant attitude” to any outfit. The range comes in both non-stretch denim with Tencel and stretch organic cotton denim, underlining Levi’s ongoing commitment to sustainable materials. www.levi.com
MUD JEANS IKEA COLLABORATION
Both thought-leaders in circular design and sustainable production, MUD Jeans and IKEA have collaborated to give recycled denim a new lease of life, using it to develop IKEA’s KLIPPAN sofa covers. The new KLIPPAN sofa cover is a limited collection sale retailing in nine European markets. “By joining forces with MUD Jeans, we can work together to secure new sources of recycled materials and develop products using post-consumer materials such as recycled jeans,” says Malin Nordin, Head of Circular Development, Inter IKEA Group. mudjeans.eu ikea.com
RICHARD J. BROWN ELEGANCE AND QUALITY
Denim makers Richard J. Brown present an A/W 21-22 collection centered around elegance and quality. New models, such as the Bali for men, introduce a five-pocket jean with a pleat, while the Brigitte and Trude for women feature wide silhouettes with decorative patch pockets. Famed for their branded patches, the new editions feature ostrich-effect leather, with metal hardware set in copper or silver plate. The collection is available via their showroom, online and via agents. RJB is planning to attend upcoming international trade fairs, starting with Pitti Uomo 99. www.richardjbrown.it
POLARTEC X STONE ISLAND LIGHTWEIGHT, HEAT-REGULATING LINING
Famed for its innovation, Stone Island is using state-of-the-art Polartec fabrics in two pieces of its S/S 21 range: The Bomber and Hooded Jacket. Originally designed for the US Special Forces, Polartec Alpha lining works with the outer layer to maintain the wearer’s body temperature, eliminating the need to shed layers. Alpha uses lofted fibers that are connected to a solid mesh core. This lightweight, high-performance microfiber is functional and modern, delivering on-the-go warmth via air exchange technology. polartec.com stoneisland.com
SUN68 LAUNCHES STREETWEAR CAPSULE
SUN68 is launching its new streetwear capsule collection for A/W 21. Called ‘Good Game’ (a nod to the exchange used at the end of a match to congratulate a rival), the collection will be composed of iconic streetwear pieces such as T-shirts, sweatshirts and overalls. The project looks to urban references and youthful street shapes. The SUN68 Good Game capsule will be officially released in September 2021 and distributed exclusively in selected stores and on the brand’s official e-commerce website. sun68.com
PONS QUINTANA FALL UPDATE
Heritage footwear brand Pons Quintana is back and better than ever. Their new A/W 21 range features on-trend braided uppers in everyday silhouettes, while their nod to the chunky-shoe trend sees their ‘light-weight revolution soles’ give the trend an effortless feel. Animal print, metallic finishes, bright accents and an intense red add vibrancy to their winter range. Additionally, the brand has launched a new unisex sneaker line, ‘Carlos Pons’, a more youthful and sportier version of their range in the most premium materials. ponsquintana.com
HEINZ BAUER MANUFAKT SUSTAINABILITY & INNOVATION
Heinz Bauer Manufakt focuses on waste reduction and biodegradable materials as part of its sustainability strategy. From A/W 21-22 onwards, all down jackets with Formula 1 print lining will be equipped with a biodegradable lining made of polyamide, which decomposes under landfill conditions within five years. Additionally, Heinz Bauer Manufakt has offered new models for A/W 21-22 consisting of leather with cashmere. Loro Piana has supplied the finest cashmere for hoodies and vests with lamb nappa leather across the shoulder and chest. www.heinzbauer.com
APROPOS EXPANSION OF FLAGSHIP STORE
Apropos The Concept Store is showing signs of growth by adding a new footwear store and café in mid-July to its Cologne flagship. The brand portfolio will consist of Christian Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik and Bottega Veneta and will see additional brands such as Dior, Gianvito Rossi and Tod’s, of which the store will plan a number of innovative new pop-ups. The former footwear section will host a bigger interior and home accessory section. www.apropos-store.com
CHT ORGANIQ EMS JEANS
Following the launch of their sustainable product range, organIQ, in March, CHT reveals their latest innovation: organIQ EMS Jeans. organIQ EMS Jeans is a modular ecological system for the creation of various sustainable effects on jeans. Thomas Aplas, Head of Application Field Jeans & Garment, states, “[This is] a system on the highest possible ecological level. With this, we are not only expanding the finishing possibilities with completely ecological processes, but we also provide the opportunity to create new, previously unknown combinations of color and contrast.” www.cht.com
NASTRIFICIO VICTOR DIGITIZATION
Nastrificio Victor, known for its high-end woven tapes, has digitized its collection to further its sustainable development goals. In collaboration with German company Color Digital, the company enables customers to view the collection in highresolution and as 3D models. Its cloud-based platform allows the modification of products: changing the color, finish and texture of the fabric to obtain an article that meets the customer’s specific needs. Nastrificio Victor has also further developed an online showcase, which offers a preview of its seasonal collections. www.victor.it
MICAM CONFIRMED DATES
Micam Milano, the international footwear show, has announced new dates: September 19–21, 2021. Assocalzaturifici and Micam Chair Siro Badon states: “Starting up this virtuous system again, at the service of enterprises and the exports that result from trade fairs, means relaunching the industry on world markets.” For safety, the show will be hosted on a three, rather than a four, day formula. Micam will also expand its digital event. The previous spring Micam Milano Digital Show presented over 90 brands and had 5,000 registered buyers. milano.themicam.com
STONE ISLAND X NEW BALANCE COLLABORATION
Sportswear icon Stone Island and global athletic leader New Balance announced the kickoff of a long-term relationship, combining their expertise in research and functionality. Initial talks were based on a footwear collaboration that will roll out in several waves over the next few years. Carlo Rivetti, President and Creative Director at Stone Island, comments: “To exchange concepts and ideas by opening doors to each other’s R&D teams – with the aim to create a product – is exciting and the greatest message we can jointly convey to our audiences.” www.stoneisland.com/newbalance
GUESS ECO FUR
For F/W 21, Guess showcases its collection of eco fur for women, men and kids, playing with timeless styles and using cutting-edge technologies to create fashion-forward garments that don’t cost the earth. Showing its continued commitment to sustainable styles, Guess has partnered with Ecopel to produce many of its faux fur products, including all outerwear garments. Ecopel produces natural touch and high perception faux fur that is easy care and offers high thermal insulation. The collection features fur coats, reversible bombers, bikers and vests. www.guess.com
NEWD.TAMARIS PREMIUM PRESENCE
NEWD.Tamaris is the Wortmann Group’s premium collection that should position Tamaris firmly in the fashion retail segment.
The collection is based on contemporary design with minimalism at its core, targeting women who are selfassured in their style choices and want only top-quality purchases. A selective sales structure is being adopted, choosing high-end retailers with outstanding reputations. This contemporary range enjoys the highest quality ensured by the Wortmann Group’s long-term experience and well-established practices. tamaris.com
WEATHERPROOF VINTAGE EXPANSION AT MACY’S
The latest initiative by iconic American label Weatherproof Vintage is its expansion at the world’s largest store: Macy’s. The brand just concluded its Spring/ Summer 2021 campaign where it featured in the windows of Macy’s Herald Square flagship store. In addition to the brand’s men’s fashion outdoor lifestyle shop at Macy’s, Weatherproof Vintage also launched its A/W 21 Women’s Ready-to-Wear collection to expand its product portfolio further. www.weatherproofvintage.com