ANCIENT FUTURE
Linen is the most ancient of fabrics, possibly used as a textile some 36,000 years ago. Still, today we speak of it as an innovation, perhaps because the textile industry seeks to reconcile with its ancestral knowledge. European flax, which linen textiles are made of, is a plant of great simplicity, but at the same time, it has many characteristics: cultivated with responsible agriculture practices, respecting environment and people, preserving water and soil.
WeAr Denim spoke with Marie Demaegdt, Textile & Sustainability Manager of the European Confederation of Flax and Hemp - CELC, to discuss this widely used fabric in the denim industry. What are the advantages in flax-linen agriculture? Flax is grown and extracted in Western Europe: France, Belgium, Netherlands. This production accounts for 80% of world flax fibre production thanks to a unique combination of soil, weather, and expertise. Sustainable practices in Europe enable to grow flax with no irrigation (today rainwater is sufficient, guaranteed 99% by CELC. Tomorrow, to be reassessed), no GMOs, and no defoliant. It is sown in rotation, alternating flax every six years on average with other crops, thus helping to preserve soil and water, prevent diseases, and use little pesticide and fertilizer. And 100% of the plant is used, generating no waste. Why do designers choose linen fabrics for their denim collections? Sustainability is a key driver, and the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of European Flax® fibre published by CELC does measure the effect of these responsible practices on the fibre’s environmental footprint score, calculated in compliance to European PEF method. And thus, confirm remarkably low impacts for an agricultural product, especially re. water due to absence of irrigation, and eutrophication due to low fertilizer use. Versatility also: flax-linen can be used as long fibre and wet-spun for fine yarns; as short fibre and dryspun for thicker yarns; or cottonized for blended yarns. The flax fibre is very strong and durable, and thermo-regulating. 100% linen denim offer raw authenticity or washed softness. Linen blends can be classic with cotton, draping smoothly with viscose, stretch with elastic fibres, etc. We can also expect new blends with hemp - European production of cottonized hemp though small, is on the rise. How do you see these fibres shaping the future of Denim? What are the challenges? Flax-linen only represents 0,4% of world fibres, and hemp is a tiny fraction of that. They will never replace cotton in terms of global business but offer denim brands complementary, creative and sustainable choices which are creative, sustainable, and premium. Our flax-linen agro-industry’s challenges include LCA for each step of processing for long and short fibres (hackling, carding, combing, cottonizing, spinning, etc.); and reinforcing traceability through our certifications European Flax® for linen textiles and products made from European fibre, and Masters Of Linen® with a European-centred textile eco-system. news.europeanflax.com