DAIRY DELIGHTS
While some cheeses resemble other types in shape and taste, many distinctive varieties unique to their country of origin are constantly being developed to accommodate continuously changing consumer tastes
Ambarees: a taste of home
Considered by some as one of the world’s oldest cheeses still being produced, this traditional caprine dairy product, also known as ‘yogurt in a jar’ and unique to the Bekaa Valley, has for the past year gradually been migrating to the capital.
It is, however, something of an acquired taste; most who taste it and are not native to the region rarely try it again and, some may say, for good reason. This fermented ‘yogurt’, which goes by many other names, is made from raw, full-fat goat’s milk, originally stored in elongated 40-liter clay jars. It is worked into a sour, off-white, dry paste that has a distinct and somewhat uninviting odor.
At a time when the only type of communication was in person and transportation was subject to the elements, Ambarees constituted one
of the central ingredients stored for consumption and nourishment during the cold, hard winters. The creamy texture, complete with pungent acidic flavor, takes six months to mature into its edible form and, for every kilo of Ambarees, seven kilos of milk are needed.
Aside from the arduous process, the clay jars required for its making are one of the reasons that supply has outstripped demand. These specifically designed vessels were originally handed down from one generation to another. The potters of that era were master craftsmen who knew how to fashion jars that allowed a precise amount of air to seep in, while ensuring they remained sound enough to let the milk ferment, thereby giving the paste its signature acidity without damaging the jars themselves in the process.
At the beginning of March, prior to introducing the milk into the containers, the jars are cleaned, then left to soak in a solution of water and rock salt for an entire month. At the end of that time, the first batch of fresh milk is poured, the jar is sealed and left to ferment until a curd becomes visible. Like wine, the process is time sensitive and requires constant supervision.
About a week to 10 days later, the liquid at the bottom is drained through a small hole, carefully made during the manufacturing process of the jar. At this point, another batch of unprocessed goat’s milk and salt are added, with the liquid drained twice a week until the jar is full to the brim. By this time, the opening at the top is dressed with a moderately thick cotton cloth to allow the contents to breathe.
Six months later, the Ambarees reaches maturity, the jars are emptied and traditionally sold in one-kilogram plastic buckets, some of which were previously yogurt buckets.