Aperitif

With Spicy Pesto-Feta Cheese Straws

All the drinks we’ve discussed so far are aperitifs, but this page is reserved for concoctions that were deliberately created for the cinq-à-sept, pre-dinner moment. It’s a long and very varied list that starts where vermouth leaves off, veers into bitters like Pernod or Campari, then into fruit-and-spirit concoctions such as Alizé or Pimms… Here are two—one old, one new—that go delectably well with these fancy cheese straws. French boulevardiers were enthusing about Lillet even before the Duchess of Windsor made it fashionable in the 1930s; Capo Capo is Canada’s answer to Aperol.

A crunchy snack with the saltiness of feta and the brightness of homemade pesto is a nibble befitting a herbaceous aperitif. It’s a toast to early summer in the form of a buttery breadstick.

PESTO

1 small bunch basil, about 30 leaves 2 tbsp (30 mL) fresh chopped parsley 3 garlic cloves

⅓ cup (80 mL) grated Parmesan ⅓ cup (80 mL) toasted pine nuts ½ tsp (2 mL) sea salt

Juice of half a lemon

½ cup (125 mL) olive oil

1 egg, lightly beaten

½ cup (125 mL) crumbled feta cheese

½ tsp (2 mL) chili flakes

½ pkg (1 sheet) frozen rolled sheet puff pastry, thawed as per package instructions

1 tbsp (15 mL) sesame seeds

1 Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C).

2 For pesto, add basil, parsley, garlic, Parmesan, pine nuts, salt and lemon juice to a small food processor. Pulse until combined, then gradually add olive oil until smooth. You will not use all of the pesto for this recipe. The remainder can be covered in the fridge for up to a week.

3 In a small bowl, beat the egg well. Set aside. In another bowl, combine crumbled feta and chili flakes. Set aside.

4 Brush sheet of puff pastry with egg wash then slice in half lengthwise. Spread one half with 3 tbsp (45 mL) pesto and evenly sprinkle the feta mixture over, leaving a ¼-inch (5-mm) border on each edge. Top the pesto-cheese half with the other half of the puff pastry, egg-washed-side down. Gently roll with rolling pin to seal both halves together.

5 Using a knife, slice ½-inch (1-cm) strips widthwise. Then, holding one end of a strip, slowly twist the other side a few times and pinch the ends. Lay twists on a baking sheet as you go, an inch (2.5 cm) apart, repeating the process until all the twists are done. You should have about 12. Brush lightly with egg wash and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

6 Bake in preheated oven for 14 to 16 minutes or until golden brown.

Serves 4