Food & Drink

CAVA

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People eat dinner very late in Barcelona, preceding it with the very civilized aperitif of a glass of brut cava served with some flavourful nibble like green olives stuffed with almonds or anchovies. The wine’s acidity balances the saltiness of the olives perfectly.

Cava was invented in 1872 by Don José Raventós, a Catalan man of wealth and vision— and a keen Champagne fan. He excavated a cellar in his garden and emerged seven years later with 72 cases of bubbly made from three local grapes—Xarel-lo for structure, Macabeo for fruitiness and Parellada for elegance. He called his new company Codorníu—and cava was born.

SEGURA VIUDAS BRUT RESERVA CAVA LCBO 216960, $15.95

Pleasing crowds for decades, this eminently reliable bubbly elevates a party but also repays attention with notes of apple, pear, citrus, olive and almond dancing around your tongue. Other cavas may now include Chardonnay in an effort to mimic a more internatio­nal style—I can’t help feeling that’s a shame. This wine is great with shellfish and pasta with creamy seafood sauce.

CODORNÍU BRUT CLASICO LCBO 215814, $14.40

The Xarel-lo grape gives traditiona­l cavas (like this one) a distinctiv­e hint of earthiness, which some people love and others find off-putting. It’s what makes this wine such an excellent match for sushi, echoing the nuttiness of the rice. Frothy, delicate and very refreshing, the Clasico shows apple and pear aromas with a hint of almonds on the longish finish. Amazing value!

 ??  ?? My favourite wine of all for sushi, cava can also handle more pungent flavours, not by confrontin­g them but by continuous­ly refreshing your palate.
My favourite wine of all for sushi, cava can also handle more pungent flavours, not by confrontin­g them but by continuous­ly refreshing your palate.

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