NOODLE OR ROLL?

A “three-star Michelin” street food to sate late-night cravings

烤冷面：“三星米其林”街边美味

sheets were invented. Another theory says that it was born in Tieling city of the neighboring Liaoning province, as an employee of a barbecue shop accidently dropped some cold noodles on the griddle and the thrifty boss, disliking waste, grilled them with squid and sold them.

The most common variation of kao lengmian, seen on street corners and night markets especially in the north of China, is prepared on a gas fueledgriddle often on the back of an electric cart. Vendors often advertise this version of the snack as an invention from Harbin, Heilongjiang’s capital city. Popular kao lengmian vendors usually draw a crowd of tired students and office workers in the evening, who shout their orders and have the owner customize the fillings and seasonings to taste. Novelty fillings include beef, chicken, fish, potato, and even stinky tofu. The snack can also be made at home, with a flat-bottomed pan and the packaged cold noodle sheets that are usually sold with a small bag of sweet soybean paste.