AN UNSTRUCTURED JACKET
(Keep it casual)
To shake things up, even in summer.
Let’s start at the beginning: what exactly is an unstructured jacket? Simply put, it’s a lightweight, unlined jacket with soft shoulders and a casual look – essentially the perfect warm-weather jacket. ■Here, the unstructured jacket pairs effortlessly with jeans, perhaps because they’re both so relaxed. And, of course, pink and indigo always make a great match. ■ Obviously, the loafers could have been brown, but we prefer black ones – to go with the sunglasses.
T-shirt, ’90s. Jacket, DRIES VAN NOTEN. Jeans, ’70s, LEVI’S. Loafers, SEBAGO. Sunglasses, ’60s, CULTURE FRAMES.
Here’s a look that says “South of France“if ever there was one! The Bleu de Chine cotton jacket-and-pants set was historically worn by Chinese workers and farmers, then imported in the 1930s to North Africa and southern Europe, where it took off big time. Also available in black, it is a common sight in Marseille and Corsica to this day, and it’s easy to see why: it’s inexpensive, practical, indestructible and great for hot climates. ■An open-mesh knit top worn under the jacket adds to the outfit’s casual feel, while high-waisted white pants and Rondini sandals provide the finishing touch – this is the South of France, after all.
Jacket, BLEU DE CHINE STORE. T-shirt, ’60s. Pants, ’30s. Sandals, RONDINI.
Seersucker is traditionally striped, but it also works well in plaid, as this jacket shows. ■As in most of the looks in this series, the jacket is paired with a simple crew-neck T-shirt. There’s a reason for that: a shirt might look too dressy with an unstructured jacket. ■ Gray jeans are a very practical alternative to white ones, if you can find them.
T-shirt, ’90s. Pants, ’90s, LEVI’S. Jacket, HERMÈS. Loafers, J.M.WESTON.
In the unstructured jackets category, military jackets occupy a central and crucial place. Familiar and authentic, they are excellent bases on which to build a look, and go with a wide range of pants, even the craziest. ■ Here this magnificent fatigue jacket, recognizable by its slanted chest pockets, is worn with paisley-printed pants. They may scare off some men, but once again, they give us the opportunity to say that colorful pants are great for everyday wear as long as they have a classic cut. Just saying…
Jacket, ’60s. Tank top, MOULIN NEUF. Pants, FURSAC, Sandals, RONDINI, Bracelet, HARPO. Sunglasses, LESCA.
Worn with a shirt or polo shirt, this unstructured blazer with gold buttons (you’ll have to trust us) would look like something your uncle might wear. But a simple white T-shirt gives it a perfectly contemporary look. ■ The pants feature the famous “tigerstripe“camo print the Vietnamese Army invented in 1960 to blend in with the jungle. Picked up by the U.S. Army in 1962, it may not camouflage you, but has lost none of its appeal 60 years later.
T-shirt, UNIQLO. Pants, ’70s. Jacket, RALPH LAUREN. Loafers, COLE HAAN. Watch, BULOVA from COLLECTION PERSONNELLE.
Another T-shirt? Another seersucker jacket? Some things are so right, you just can’t fight them. ■And here’s another way you can’t go wrong: while traditional blue-and-white seersucker can be tricky to match with other pieces, it always works well with yellow.
T-shirt, ’80s. Jacket, RALPH LAUREN.
Does this outfit look boring? Think of it more as a reliable go-to. A typically American combo of blazer, chinos and buck shoes is just as easy to wear as it is to look at. ■The T-shirt, a ringer tee with contrasting collar and pocket, livens up the look – a subtle but crucial detail.
T-shirt and chinos, ‘50s. Jacket, JUSTO GIMENO for BEIGE HABILLEUR. Shoes, RALPH LAUREN.
Here, the blazer is black rather than navy for a less classic, more modern take on the style. It works best with soft, bright colors. ■ There’s never a reason to throw away a good pair of jeans, even if they’re almost in tatters.
T-shirt, ‘70s. Jeans, ‘80s, LEVI‘S.
Jacket, JUSTO GIMENO for BEIGE HABILLEUR. Loafers, GUCCI.
Does this arty, minimalist look remind you of David Lynch? No surprise there –that’s where we lifted it from. ■ Here it’s all about the shirt collar, which is particularly soft. A stiff collar would ruin the balance. ■This is a good time to point out that the fully buttoned-up shirt collar – known as the “air tie,“since it seems to cry out for one – is a trick that doesn’t always work. To tell the truth, it probably only works in this exact configuration. ■ Good news: we haven’t lost our fascination with Prada re-nylon.
Shirt and jacket, PRADA.
All vintage pieces from this serie come from LE VIF.