Where to eat
Prices are per person for a meal without drinks, unless otherwise stated
Damun Specialises in hanjeongsik – a few meat and fish centrepieces surrounded by enough sides to make you question if the table will hold. Don’t miss the sublime tteokgalbi, a short rib patty grilled in citrus and sesame oil. From £15. 82 Gyo-dong, Wansan-gu, 00 82 63 288 8607
Gil Sonne In the Seventies and Eighties, when South Korea was ruled by a succession of military dictators, the streets outside Chonbuk National University thronged with student protestors. After demonstrations they’d decamp here, to wash away the tear gas and refuel on makgeolli and
dak-bokkeum-tang, a stew of gooey chicken, potatoes and gochujang.
The area’s more peaceful now, but the spicy broth is still worth rioting for. From £10. 231 Gwansamdeuk-ro, Deokjin-gu, 00 82 63 271 6453
Hanguk-jip Since 1952, this family-run restaurant has made Jeonju’s – and arguably the world’s – best bibimbap. A dish so deceptively simple lives and dies by its ingredients, and the ones they use here are extraordinary, including a six-month fermented gochujang, locally grown wild greens and pine nuts, bellflower root, and the restaurant’s signature
hwangpo-muk (jellied mung beans doused in soy sauce and gardenia seeds). From £7. 119 Eojin-gil, Wansan-gul, 00 82 63 284 2224
Jeonil Gabo If you can’t find it by the sign, keep an eye out – and a nose – for a tiny woman grilling salted pollack on an ancient, wood-fired grill. Inside, you’ll find her gamaek (literally ‘corner store beer’), where you can wash your fish down with chilled lager, which you grab as needed from the fridge. Keep the bottle caps handy and pay at the end. From £3.
16 Hyeonmu 2-gil, Wansan-gu, 00 82 63 284 0793
Jeonju Waengi Jib Makgeolli hangovers are notorious. Fortunately, the cure is delicious – kongnamul gukbap, a soup made from soybean sprouts. This poky canteen serves its version with a raw egg: when you’ve nearly finished, spoon in some broth, swirl to mix, then slurp it down. From £4. 88 Dongmun-gil, Wansan-gu, 00 82 63 287 6979
Veteran Kalguksu There’s only ever been three things on the menu here: kalguksu, a hearty noodle broth, jjolmyeon, in which you mix up cold noodles with shredded veg and gochujang, and mandu, pork and leek dumplings with homemade hot sauce. Expect to queue on weekends. From £4. 135 Gyeonggijeon-gil, Wansan-gu, 00 82 63 285 9898
Yetchon Makgeolli You order makgeolli rice wine by the copper kettle here, and get a meal for free. Fluffy kimchi pancakes are accompanied by duck served pink on enoki mushrooms, fermented crab meat and kimchi aged for eight months in a secret seafood sauce. Makgeolli kettle from £15pp. 843-16 Seosin-dong, Wansan-gu, 00 82 063 272 9992