Food and Travel (Germany)

Eastern Europe

Bypass the usual Eastern European hotspots for the chance to spot rare Balkan lynx in Albania, drink wild pear brandy in Romania, hike pine-scented mountains in Croatia and bathe in Slovakian thermal springs. Imogen Lepere leads the way

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PIRAN SLOVENIA

Perhaps given that it is sandwiched between Italy’s Adriatic coast and the islands of Croatia – thousands of golden polka dots floating on a blue, blue ocean – it’s no surprise that Slovenia’s tiny coastline is often overlooked by those seeking spring sun. Their loss is your gain. The pretty town of Piran is crammed onto a narrow peninsula which juts out into the Gulf of Trieste like a talon, a geographic­al quirk that has preserved its medieval charm by protecting it from overdevelo­pment. As you ascend the 147 steps of the bell tower on St George’s Church, you’ll have plenty of time to ponder why you feel like you’ve seen it before. The answer is that Piran was part of the Venetian empire for more than 500 years and the tower modelled on the campanile of St Mark’s in Venice. Ornate facades, Juliet balconies and carved stone passages suspended between houses are all part of this heritage, and simply strolling around is one of Piran’s chief pleasures. On the street leading to the main square, Pri Mari primari-piran.com is a family-run restaurant decorated in the historic arte povera style. Mara’s welcome is as full of character as the classic Istrian plates her son Marco creates in the kitchen. Below the church, a stretch of pebbly beach offers lovely swimming, but if you’re after something more private, simply stroll around the town walls. There are plenty of rocky ledges and staircases leading straight into the sea to choose from, and with May temperatur­es in the mid-20s, you’ll be keen to cool off. The Sečovlje salt pans in the mouth of the River Dragonja have been producing

fleur de sal since the 13th century. Prized for its unique mineral flavour, it is still harvested by hand in the time-honoured way. Explore the salt museum and time your visit to coincide with sunset, when the crystals on the salt lakes glow the colour of strawberry milkshake.

Hotel Piran, a

WHERE TO STAY charmingly faded grande dame that’s just five steps from the waterfront. Doubles from £68. hotel-piran.si

Trieste Airport

HOW TO GET THERE is 80km away. Taxi Piran can arrange transfers. The journey takes around 1 hour. taxi-transfer-airport.com

CESKÝ KRUMLOV

CZECH REPUBLIC

The epithet ‘fairy tale’ is trotted out all too frequently in travel writing, but it is hard to think of one that better describes this Unesco World Heritage Site in South Bohemia, about two hours’ drive from the capital. Nicknamed ‘the pearl of Bohemia’, it has all the medieval charm of Prague but a fraction of the crowds (and none of the tiresome stag parties). A 14th-century castle worthy of any mythical wizard towers above renaissanc­e colour-washed houses with wonky roofs, while damselflie­s hover over the waters of the River Vltava, which meanders lazily through the centre of town. If this is all sounding a little too dreamy and surreal, an adrenaline fix is never far away. A day’s rafting under the tutelage of an English-speaking local guide from Rafting Krumlov rafting-krumlov.cz is a fantastic way to explore the surroundin­g countrysid­e and to get to grips with this area of bucolic Bohemia, which arrives as a land of wonderful forests, fish ponds and folk baroque villages. Back in town, ensure that you set aside several hours to explore the castle, which is one of the biggest in central Europe, and offers dramatic views from its curvaceous stone tower. During May’s balmy evenings, the lush banks of the river buzz with locals sharing Moravian wines (if you see any from the hamlet of Znojmo on a wine list, make sure you snap it up immediatel­y) and jihočeská

niva, a creamy blue cheese unique to the region which tastes like a cross between Gorgonzola and Camembert. After lunch, take a stroll towards the main square until you reach Restaurant Jakub

jakubresta­urant.cz – a fine-dining fish restaurant that boasts a roomy terrace fringed with geraniums. It is a cheerful spot to try the freshwater fish of the day and pork head sweetbread­s. A threecours­e meal costs around £15.

Hotel Ruže, a

WHERE TO STAY historical curio in a 16th-century

Jesuit’s dormitory in the city centre. Doubles from £123. hotelruze.cz

Prague Airport

HOW TO GET THERE is 170km away. CK Shuttle can arrange a shared bus. The journey takes around 3 hours. ckshuttle.cz

ŁÓDÓZ POLAND

The third-biggest city in Poland, Łódź has had a fascinatin­g yet troubled past and is now emerging as one of the most dynamic places for an urban break in Eastern Europe. This fierce destinatio­n has reinvented itself more times than Madonna and, like every great eccentric, bears telltale scars which only add to its intrigue. Its location in the very centre of the country made it a natural focus for trade, while the surroundin­g forests kept the fires burning in its brick textile factories. Today, many have been reimagined as creative hubs such as OFF Piotrkowsk­a, a former cotton mill that now houses more than 50 small businesses including barbershop­s, artisan ice-cream parlours, galleries and music spaces. Others are being used as canvases by renowned street artists such as ROA from Belgium and Inti from Chile. Download a map from urbanforms.org to see them all on a self-guided walking tour. During the Second World War, the city was occupied by Nazis and lost more than half its population. A sobering stroll around the enormous Jewish cemetery will reveal tombs marked with nothing more than rusty bedsteads, as the Nazis denied victims the right to gravestone­s. Over the last ten years, Łódź has become the nucleus of Poland’s alternativ­e and creative communitie­s. A pootle down Piotrkowsk­a Street reveals alleyways decorated in intricate tiles leading to courtyard cafés such as Café Verte

00 48 42 639 9129, which serves great homemade cakes, and progressiv­e basement bars where creative types sip refreshing local craft brew Lacto Bacto.

Vienna House

WHERE TO STAY Andel’s Łódź, a former mill with huge rooms and spectacula­r rooftop pool. Doubles from £89. viennahous­e.com

Warsaw Chopin

HOW TO GET THERE Airport is 138km away. OK Bus runs a Łódź service (2 hours). okbus.pl

KOMANI LAKE AND VALBONA ALBANIA

Picture the icy depths of Pogradec’s Lake Ohrid and the untapped majesty of the Ionian coast. Or Osumi Canyon’s mysterious stone creases and dense forests, where the almond eyes of the last surviving 40 Balkan lynx may be glimpsed by a lucky few. Albania’s landscape can only be described as epic, and nowhere more so than around the Accursed Mountains, the spiny range which extends from northern Albania to Kosovo. Cradled in its very heart, the Valbona Valley National Park is a lush tapestry of beech forests and Ottoman mountain villages such as Gjarpër, where the local water supply predominan­tly consists of melted snow harvested from a nearby cave. Aside from its pastoral culture, the main draw of the region for visitors is 200km of spectacula­r hiking trails. The walking route between Valbona village and Theth, a 9.5km trek through snow-capped peaks and meadows populated by shepherds and their flocks, is particular­ly breathtaki­ng. Other notable routes include the Valbona loop trail (8.5km) and Valbona to Maja Rosit (16.7km), an awe-inspiring ramble through wildflower meadows dotted with some of the country’s 196 species of butterflie­s. The best way to reach Valbona is the ferry through Komani Lake, a staggering­ly beautiful stretch of water that is at times so narrow it scarcely seems the boat will be able pass. The boat makes frequent stops at remote hamlets, where you might spot locals loading mules with key supplies, and offers a fantastic way of meeting these normally shy country folk.

Hotel Margjeka,

WHERE TO STAY a comfortabl­e family-run chalet that does a mean line in alpine soul food and employs a team of horses to transport your luggage. Doubles from £30. hotelmargj­eka.al

Tirana Airport

HOW TO GET THERE is 250km away. The Berisha Ferry service can organise transfers on the daily minibus to Komani Lake from here. They can also arrange a minibus to take you from the Fierzë terminal straight to your guesthouse in Valbona. The journey takes around 2 hours. komanilake­ferry.com

LOPUD CROATIA

Sure, you’ve heard of Brač and Hvar, but what about Lopud? The lush emerald at the centre of the Elafiti Islands is just under an hour from Dubrovnik by ferry, but with an area of less than 5sq km it can accommodat­e a fraction of the crowds. Just 220 residents call its single village home, mostly making a living by fishing and running the handful of sleepy cafés and ice-cream shops that line the seafront promenade along the island’s northern bay. When dusk falls and the crickets begin to squeak in earnest, sun-wizened locals such as eccentric artist and author Luciano Apparuti, whose shop lies part-way along the main street, emerge from their stone cottages to sip travarica (herbal brandy) and play dominoes. Stop at Obala restaurant obalalopud.com – which has a handful of tables right on the waterfront where you can try local delicacies such as Dalmatian prosciutto and grilled octopus. It’s Adriatic life at its most traditiona­l, and with just a handful of hotels on the island, you’ll be one of the only visitors there. The next day, hire kayaks or pedalos from the sandy beach near the village jetty. A 25-minute walk south, Šunj Beach is one of the best in the region, with fine, powdery sand and a pair of shacks with striped awnings dispensing cold drinks. A hike across Lopud’s pine-scented interior reveals more than 35 haunting ruins that tell the story of the island’s history. Look out for the church of St Ilija, an abandoned Dominican convent and a hilltop fortress, all gradually being reclaimed by pomegranat­e trees and nesting storks.

WHERE TO STAY Hotel Villa

Vilina, a historic mansion run by a local family with a large pool and terrace with sea views. Doubles from £94. villa-vilina.hr

Dubrovnik

HOW TO GET THERE Airport is 37km away. Jadrolinij­a runs daily ferries to Lopud. The journey takes just under an hour. jadrolinij­a.hr

ŠTRBSKÉ PLESO | SLOVAKIA (HIGH TATRAS)

In the 13th century, Štrbské Pleso, a vast glacial lake surrounded by the snow-dusted peaks of the High Tatra mountains, was handed over to the local peasants by the ruling Hungarian royalty, who considered it useless as it was so remote. Today, it is one of Slovakia’s most sought-after wellness destinatio­ns, a great-value alternativ­e to the Alps for those seeking the peace of rolling pine forests and the chance to bathe in natural thermal springs beneath a cold, crisp sky studded with stars. There are plenty of gorgeous hikes to choose from. In spring, Mlynická is carpeted with bluebells, edelweiss and primroses nourished by the Skok Waterfall, which bounces through the valley from rocky shelf to plateau, leaving a spray of greenery in its wake. The hike takes three hours, and if you’re feeling brave, there are chains in place that allow you to scale the waterfall and discover the string of pure mountain lakes at its peak. For something a little shorter, head west from Štrbské Pleso to Jamské Pleso, a crystallin­e lake that can be reached in an hour on a trail winding slightly uphill through the woods. Soothe aching muscles with a visit to Novyé Smokovec, a cutting-edge medical spa located 15 minutes away by taxi, which offers everything from Finnish saunas to oxygen therapy. For traditiona­l mountain comfort food such as venison goulash with grilled dumplings, make your way to Hotel Patria hotelpatri­a.sk – a quirky chalet on the very edge of the lake. Their alcoholic Tatra tea is just the thing to send you into a dreamless sleep.

WHERE TO STAY Grand Hotel Kempinski, the last word in mountain luxury with a fantastic spa that focuses on local materials in its treatments. Doubles from £167. kempinski.com

HOW TO GET THERE Poprad-Tatry Airport is 23km away. Trains run from Poprad to Štrbské Pleso. The journey takes just under 1 hour. slovakrail.sk

BALCHIK | BULGARIA

‘Balchik is a place of silence and restfulnes­s where I go to refresh my soul and body.' So wrote Queen Marie, granddaugh­ter of Queen Victoria and the last monarch of Romania, whose palace still towers above this pretty fishing village in Dobruja, on the border of Bulgaria and Romania. A basketful of whitewashe­d buildings nestling at the foot of chalky cliffs, it is a breath of fresh air on a stretch of the Black Sea coast that is characteri­sed by concrete resorts where package holidays are churned out as clinically as products in a Soviet factory. Although it does have an art gallery and museum, the main pleasure offered by this sleepy town is pottering. Balchik Beach is a pebble cove in front of the Helios Hotel, which is always buzzing in summer with bronzed locals sipping Kamenitza beer. A little quieter, Ikantlaka Beach, or St George, as it's also known, is a neat swathe of sand studded with parasols overlookin­g a lagoon that's as still as glass. Retreat from the May temperatur­es, which hover in the mid-20s, in the shade of Balchik Botanical Gardens' rare trees, and don't miss a sunrise stroll around the yachting marina to see a fleet of fishermen trying their luck at jack mackerel fishing. In front of the gardens and with views over the water, Restaurant Korona's 00 359

57 976 847 large terrace is the perfect place in which to enjoy fresh seafood and aubergine salad, alongside a glass of refreshing Fetească Neagră wine, which is unique to the region.

WHERE TO STAY Antik Hotel Balchik, a contempora­ry bolthole with an enviable spot on the waterfront. Doubles from £49. hotelantik.eu

HOW TO GET THERE Varna Airport is 50km away. Sun Transfers offers taxis from here. The journey takes around 40 minutes. suntransfe­rs.com

MOSTAR | BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVIN­A

Although it fits neatly into the green hollow between Hum Hill and the foot of Velež mountain, any visit to Mostar inevitably ends up being a tale of two cities. Despite the fact that the civil war ended in 1995, the city is unofficial­ly divided by an invisible line to this day, with the remains of bombed-out houses serving as a poignant reminder that history is a living, breathing organism here. The Croat Catholic part of town is on the west bank of the Neretva, one of the most beautiful rivers in the Balkans. More modern and European than its eastern counterpar­t, its skyline is pierced by church spires and a haunting sniper tower now scrawled with messages of peace. Cross the Stari Most, an iconic bridge in the shape of a crescent moon, to the Muslim Bosniak, on the eastern side of the river, to hear the sound of the imam calling people to prayer and smell the spices wafting out of Ottoman-era bazaars. The old town is on this bank and its cobbled streets feature an exotic combinatio­n of pre-Ottoman, Eastern Ottoman and Mediterran­ean architectu­re styles. A wander down Coppersmit­h Street is a must. Its red and cream buildings now bustle with locals pedalling silk scarves and kitsch war memorabili­a. Nearby Bišćević House, with its pretty courtyard and original furnishing­s, is a 16th-century gem. Exploring its atmospheri­c rooms, it's easy to picture copper merchants reclining on the silken cushions, sipping grainy Turkish coffee and eating dates. Take a 15-minute taxi ride to the petite village of Blagaj, where you can feast on river trout with lemon at Restoran Vrelo restoranvr­elo.com which overlooks a monastery that dips its toes into a photogenic azure rock pool.

WHERE TO STAY Muslibegov­ić House, a former Ottoman mansion, which is a must for its luxurious four-poster beds and peaceful gardens. Doubles from £64.

muslibegov­ichouse.com

HOW TO GET THERE Sarajevo Internatio­nal Airport is 125km away. Get By Bus has regular services to Mostar. The journey takes around 2.5 hours. getbybus.com

SIBIU | ROMANIA

Since being named European Capital of Culture in 2007, this graceful city in southern Transylvan­ia has kept a fairly low profile – until now. This year, it is the European Region of Gastronomy, an award which recognises sustainabl­e gastronomi­c innovation at a local level. The food scene is a delectable scramble of the Romanian, Saxon, Hungarian, Armenian, Hebrew and Roma cultures who have all called Sibiu home, while the huge number of organic farms in the region reflects the fact that Romania only ceased to be a Communist state 30 years ago. Head to Cibin Market to sample sheep’s cheese from the verdant slopes of the Southern Carpathian­s, Crama Sibiul Vechi for smoked meats, Urban Brewery for craft beer and Syndicat Gourmet syndicatgo­urmet.ro to try traditiona­l recipes reimagined with contempora­ry flair. Beef tongue drizzled in cherry and rosehip sauce is our recommenda­tion. The town itself is equally eclectic. The Upper Town was traditiona­lly wealthier and holds most of the important cultural attraction­s. Start in the Piata Mica, where you can explore the Brukenthal Museum, Pharmacy Museum and the Holy Trinity Catholic Church, before soaking up views of the pastel-painted Lower Town from the Bridge of Liars. If you’re confused about the fact that the houses appear to be looking back at you and are blaming the wild pear brandy you enjoyed at lunch, don’t fret. The distinctiv­e eye-shaped windows were built back in the 1700s to help improve the buildings’ ventilatio­n.

WHERE TO STAY Levoslav House, a no-frills but comfortabl­e bolthole in the former residence of the composer and conductor Ján Levoslav Bella. Doubles from £59. levoslav.ro

HOW TO GET THERE Sibiu Airport is 3km away. Bus No.11 will take you to the city centre. The journey takes around 15 minutes. sibiuairpo­rt.ro

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 ??  ?? An aerial view of Piran’s red roofs, with the main Tartini Square at its centre and the sparkling
Adriatic beyond
An aerial view of Piran’s red roofs, with the main Tartini Square at its centre and the sparkling Adriatic beyond
 ??  ?? Main picture: the colourful Ceský Krumlov skyline, taking in the 14th-century castle and St Vitus’s Church. Below: Piotrkowsk­a Street, the main shopping destinatio­n in Łódóz
Main picture: the colourful Ceský Krumlov skyline, taking in the 14th-century castle and St Vitus’s Church. Below: Piotrkowsk­a Street, the main shopping destinatio­n in Łódóz
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 ??  ?? Above: a ferry on Albania's spectacula­r Komani Lake. Below: other than when crossings are taking place, twice a day, the lake is a picture of tranquilit­y
Above: a ferry on Albania's spectacula­r Komani Lake. Below: other than when crossings are taking place, twice a day, the lake is a picture of tranquilit­y
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 ??  ?? Above: the fir-flanked Štrbské Pleso glacial lake, with the High Tatras visible in the distance. Below: a jetty appears to be floating above the mirror-like water
Above: the fir-flanked Štrbské Pleso glacial lake, with the High Tatras visible in the distance. Below: a jetty appears to be floating above the mirror-like water
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 ??  ?? Right: the Bulgarian Black Sea coast, with Balchik Palace in the foreground. Below: Mostar's Neretva River
and iconic, crescent-shaped
Stari Most
Right: the Bulgarian Black Sea coast, with Balchik Palace in the foreground. Below: Mostar's Neretva River and iconic, crescent-shaped Stari Most
 ??  ?? Clockwise from top: Sibiu's Piata Mica; street-food vendors do brisk business on the city's cobbled streets; a woman carries her shopping; old wooden houses; spring cleaning
Clockwise from top: Sibiu's Piata Mica; street-food vendors do brisk business on the city's cobbled streets; a woman carries her shopping; old wooden houses; spring cleaning
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