Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

THE CHAIRMAN

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HK$800 per person

18 Kau U Fong, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2555 2202 www.thechairma­n group.com The Chairman remains one of the most influentia­l Cantonese restaurant­s in Hong Kong, staying steadfastl­y dedicated in its pursuit of exploring, championin­g, and preserving the traditions of the cuisine. No one would ever accuse chef-restaurate­ur Danny Yip and his team of choosing style over substance, either—while the cooking here is sublime, intriguing and miles ahead in terms of sourcing and technique, there is not much else to be said about the staid decor and general lack of frills. But no matter, as the food takes centre stage in a menu that prides freshness, flavour and texture according to age-old Cantonese adages. Ingredient­s are tirelessly sourced from the best purveyors, whether it’s the local seafood from Aberdeen Fish Market to beancurd sheets from Shu Kee. The steamed flower crab in aged huadiao wine and chicken oil is the restaurant’s most famous dish—so much so that you no longer need to pre-order it, such is the steady supply of the local crustacean­s— but do not overlook the highly accomplish­ed creations such as deep-fried crabmeat and mushroom dumplings sandwiched using thin pork lard. Service is warm and familial, whether you’re a regular or a newbie. For a taste of what true Cantonese flavours can be like, this is the gold standard.

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