Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

GODENYA

HK$1760 per person

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G/F, 182 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong

TEL: +852 6713 5917

www.godenya.com

Hong Kong is not unfamiliar to small hidden restaurant­s, but you won’t find anything remotely similar to Godenya. The minimally decorated restaurant serves an eight-course omakase-only menu specialisi­ng in sake pairing which is the only option available to diners. While sake may not be everyone’s preference, there’s no doubt you won’t be in awe of chefowner Shinya Goshima’s extensive knowledge and passion for the pairing. Diners are presented with a hyper-seasonal menu, which changes around once a month, focusing mainly on seafood and each paired with a different sake. It takes a very sensitive palate to detect the extreme subtleties in Goshima’s cooking, while not unusual to Japanese haute cuisine, is still a rare find in Hong Kong. The effortless presentati­on of each dish showcases the many facets of Japanese sake, presented with each course in precise temperatur­es and artisanal serving vessels. While many of the ingredient­s served may not be extremely rare, such as abalone or sanma, they are served at its peak season in minimal yet complex preparatio­n methods. It’s difficult to decide whether the dishes are more exciting or the sakes paired with them, but a visit is worthy for any occasion.

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