TENKU RYUGIN

HK$2800 per person

101/F, International Commerce Centre, No. 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

TEL: +852 2302 0222

www.globallink.com.hk/tenkuryugin

Tenku Ryugin takes the art of contemporary kaiseki cuisine to new heights, literally, on the 101st floor of Kowloon’s ICC building. The dishes from chef de cuisine Hidemichi Seki’s tasting menu reflect the finest seasonal Japanese produce and the culinary DNA of Tenku Ryugin’s original home, a three Michelin-starred spot in Tokyo. On our visit, the 11-course seasonal tasting menu reflected autumn with dishes including matstutake mushrooms in soup with grilled kinki fish, or pigeon breast grilled over charcoal. Sashimi was as good as one would hope thanks to impeccable sourcing, a palate cleanser of muscat grape with wasabi jelly was remarkable, but the flavours of a Hokkaido hairy crab steamed rice dish seemed slightly muted. A signature dessert, Kyoho grape candy, is rightly a textural and flavour revelation. The plating was consistently impeccable, with stunning tableware, while service was polite, informed and generally-efficient.