THE TAI PAN

HK$1000 per person

UG/F, The Murray, Hong Kong, 22 Cotton Tree Drive, Central, Hong Kong

TEL: +852 3141 8888

www.niccolohotels.com

The much-anticipated hotel,

The Murray, took over a 1960s government building on Cotton

Tree Drive and its fresh design has brought it racing into the 21st century. Its Modern European restaurant, The Tai Pan, is no different, with sleek marble, rich leather and strong geometric lines. The vibe is relaxed and unassuming, while the menu offers a concise selection of good dishes done well with occasional creative twists. A delightful canapé and considered amuse bouche kick off the dining experience, and are followed by foie gras pressé encased in crisp toasted brioche and accompanied by sweet fig chutney and tangy cherry jam; a meaty pan-seared seabass complemented by olive tapenade, baby leek and baby grey shrimps; and a perfectly cooked, flavourful striploin atop which a rich black garlic butter melts seductively. Accompanying wines recommended by competent staff from the well put-together list hit the mark. The dessert selection is presented tableside: a trolley of sweet treats featuring the flavours of east and west. This brings to a close a meal that, as the literal translation of ‘tai pan’ suggests, is ‘top class’.