FISH SCHOOL

HK$700 per person

www.fishschool.hk

In Hong Kong, sourcing local ingredients is a challenge—with unstable supply and variable quality, it can be a painful journey on which few chefs can afford to embark. Chris Ma is a bit of an anomaly in that regard. As

Fish School’s executive chef, he leads his small but diligent team in creating a menu with local sourcing and traditions in mind. Dried threadfin from the nearby Sheung Wan dried seafood markets becomes a moreish, anchovylike dressing for the endive and rocket salad that comes with the wagyu bavette; another Cantonese favourite, garoupa, is processed like cod to make a delectable brandade, and placed atop a thinner-thanpaper potato crisp. The dessert of tofu millefeuille, where the traditional puff pastry is replaced by tofu skin, is another inventive use of a classic Chinese ingredient. The wine list is concise and wellcurated with the menu in mind, and has a clear focus on up-and-coming wine regions and producers, all well priced. With soul-satisfying, sustainably-minded dishes, a precise wine list, and a stylishly casual environment, Fish School is a rare example of what a wellconsidered Hong Kong restaurant can be—delicious and mindful in equal measures—all without burning a hole in your chequebook.

At Fish School, chef Chris Ma leads his small but diligent team in creating a menu with local sourcing and traditions in mind

The steamed fish rice at Fish School is perfect for sharing