Neon Afterglow

Since 1984, the Tatler Dining Guide has been a collection that celebrates the very best of dining in Hong Kong—not only the chefs, restaurateurs, sommeliers and more that make up the culinary scene, but the people and themes that make this city all the more special. Beginning in 2022, we have championed local artistic talents to give us their interpretation of what the city’s gastronomy means to them. Mally Cheung, who was born and raised in Hong Kong, rises to the challenge for this year’s edition

The Work: Nightbirds

“My piece is devoted to Hong Kong-style tea restaurants, where I have spent countless mornings and afternoons admiring the beauty of the interior decor and the iconic food. The oldest ones have been around for 60 years or more. Recently, many famous tea restaurants with long histories have closed, so I created this visual memoir to pay tribute to all the places that brought us good food throughout the years. The name of the artwork is taken from a neon sign that I found in an old photograph; and it’s a nod to one of my favourite paintings, Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks, which also depicts a scene from a diner.”

When did you decide to become an illustrator?

Ever since I was little, I have always had a passion for drawing. During my primary school years, I would always look forward to going home and drawing to my heart’s content. When I grew up, I followed my passion, continued my education in art, and eventually pursued my dream as an illustrator and graphic designer.

What is your connection to Hong Kong?

Hong Kong holds a special place in my heart as I was born and raised here. I have always been fascinated to learn the rate at which the city has changed through my relatives reminiscing about their childhood. If there were a time machine, I would not hesitate to indulge in the beauty of old Hong Kong.

If you could only eat one Hong Kong snack forever, what would it be?

Hands down, the pineapple bun. I have to constantly fight this craving all day long. Of course, adding a pat of butter never hurts!

What are Hong Kong’s greatest traits, in your opinion?

I have never encountered a place with the diversity that Hong Kong offers. It is known for being a bustling international city with forests of skyscrapers, breathtaking night views and a fastpaced lifestyle. Yet it also has its quiet and tranquil side in its historical buildings, outlying islands, mountains and beaches.

If you could describe your personality as a type of food, what would it be and why?

My older sister used to call me “rice ball” when I was a baby because my chubby and expressionless face made me look like an onigiri. What’s more, my mother used to recite a Chinese poem about rice called Min Nong, meaning “The Pitiful Peasant”. It tells of the hard work that was put into farming and reminds me to treasure every single grain of rice. This resembles my down-to-earth character and it also taught me to practise gratitude for food.