Hong Kong needs more restaurants like Arcane. It is independent, not part of a big group. The chef-owner, Shane Osborn, is usually in the kitchen, instead of simply putting his name on the menu. Diners’ dietary requirements are happily accommodated, rather than being sniffed at. Service is knowledgeable, without being condescending. The wine list is extensive, if a little expensive, and full of interesting and approachable styles from Italy, Burgundy and beyond. As for the modern European food, it is delectable, while lacking in pretention. Osborn’s magic comes from using tip-top seasonal ingredients to create deceptively simple food that requires a mastery of technique. This is evident in dishes such as the signature sautéed potato gnocchi with black truffle, caramelised on the outside, pillow-soft within and bathed in flavour from the rustic mousserons, pine nut and spinach cream. It’s the total package, a recipe for success that ensures this intimate restaurant is constantly busy, attracting a local and international clientele of regulars from finance, fashion, art, business and the food world.