DIM SUM LI­BRARY

T.Dining by Hong Kong Tatler - - Cantonese -

Of­fer­ing con­tem­po­rary twists on tra­di­tional dim sum feels like some­thing of a cliché these days, but Dim Sum Li­brary has just about enough in­no­va­tions up its sleeve to keep us in­ter­ested. The stylish 1920s Art Deco and chi­nois­erie in­flu­enced de­sign does its best to trans­port you away from the brightly lit mall, with black and gold ac­cents and large pea­cock mu­rals. The menu is un­der­stand­ably dim sum fo­cused, with pre­mium in­gre­di­ents and un­usual items catch­ing the eye, but our meal proves a bit of a mixed bag. Whilst high­lights of wagyu beef puffs, dan dan xiao long bao and truf­fle har gau demon­strate tech­ni­cal skill, with gor­geously flaky pas­try and del­i­cate dumpling wrap­pers along­side full-bod­ied flavours, other items (Iberico pork che­ung fan, crispy au­bergine with salted fish and pork, mush­room and beet­root dumplings) are dis­tinctly un­der­pow­ered and lack sea­son­ing. The wine menu is short, although more cre­ativ­ity lies in the restau­rant’s ex­ten­sive cock­tail se­lec­tion, which boasts in­trigu­ing Asian ac­cents.

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