Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
DIM SUM LIBRARY
Offering contemporary twists on traditional dim sum feels like something of a cliché these days, but Dim Sum Library has just about enough innovations up its sleeve to keep us interested. The stylish 1920s Art Deco and chinoiserie influenced design does its best to transport you away from the brightly lit mall, with black and gold accents and large peacock murals. The menu is understandably dim sum focused, with premium ingredients and unusual items catching the eye, but our meal proves a bit of a mixed bag. Whilst highlights of wagyu beef puffs, dan dan xiao long bao and truffle har gau demonstrate technical skill, with gorgeously flaky pastry and delicate dumpling wrappers alongside full-bodied flavours, other items (Iberico pork cheung fan, crispy aubergine with salted fish and pork, mushroom and beetroot dumplings) are distinctly underpowered and lack seasoning. The wine menu is short, although more creativity lies in the restaurant’s extensive cocktail selection, which boasts intriguing Asian accents.