Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
TYCOON TANN
If you have always rushed past Tycoon Tann thinking it’s just another dark wood-panelled cocktail bar playing on Oriental kitsch, don’t. For tucked away its upper floors is an expectedly fine dining experience. Given Tycoon Tann’s modern, minimalist décor with touches of Chinoiserie, you might expect the new fangled Asian fusion fare. But executive chef Wong Wai-man has decided to keep flavours traditional, and any inventive twists confined to the presentation of the dishes instead. You see this play out in the platter of starters, which includes a conical beaker of marinated tomatoes sat amid a billowing cloud of dry ice, but you forgive the gimmickry when you bite into the winsome honey-slicked charcoal-grilled Hungarian pork cha siu that has just the right among of marbling. It’s not hard to see why their signatures are popular the Peking duck comes with a colourful platter of accompaniments variously sourced from Japan, Taiwan and Korea, and trying them out in different permutations makes for fun, if brief, dinner entertainment. The staff are welcoming and attentive, if a little nervous about getting things right.