Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

TYCOON TANN

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If you have always rushed past Tycoon Tann thinking it’s just another dark wood-panelled cocktail bar playing on Oriental kitsch, don’t. For tucked away its upper floors is an expectedly fine dining experience. Given Tycoon Tann’s modern, minimalist décor with touches of Chinoiseri­e, you might expect the new fangled Asian fusion fare. But executive chef Wong Wai-man has decided to keep flavours traditiona­l, and any inventive twists confined to the presentati­on of the dishes instead. You see this play out in the platter of starters, which includes a conical beaker of marinated tomatoes sat amid a billowing cloud of dry ice, but you forgive the gimmickry when you bite into the winsome honey-slicked charcoal-grilled Hungarian pork cha siu that has just the right among of marbling. It’s not hard to see why their signatures are popular the Peking duck comes with a colourful platter of accompanim­ents variously sourced from Japan, Taiwan and Korea, and trying them out in different permutatio­ns makes for fun, if brief, dinner entertainm­ent. The staff are welcoming and attentive, if a little nervous about getting things right.

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