L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON

This venerable Central institution remains modishly iconic, with its signature black and red interiors and impressive open kitchen with surrounding bar seating. The Robuchon name goes some way still, and the venue is as busy as ever; good luck getting a reservation on a Friday lunchtime, when it seems the majority of Landmark’s corporate hawks descend to loosen their ties over premium Burgundy from the superlative wine list and multiple courses of contemporary French delights. The menu is extensive, frequently changing and delightfully flexible, encouraging diners to build their own tasting menu. You might enjoy crisp beetroot and apple salad served with a green mustard sorbet, which is devastatingly beautiful; or a luxuriously silky cepe mushroom velouté lengthened with jasmine rice cream and studded with nubs of Iberico ham. The bread basket is epic, the buttery potato mash is legendary, and the wines a oenophile’s dream. Yes, Robuchon has still got it.