Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
LE 39V
The restaurant business can be cut throat in Hong Kong, but Le
39V has chosen the best vantage point to stand out among its competitors. The first global offshoot of the Michelin-starred Parisian fine dining institution of the same name, Le39V by French chef Frederic Vardon is perched on the 101th floor of the International Commerce Centre, and offers unparalleled views over Hong
Kong island and Victoria harbour. Food-wise, the seafood-rich menu is a nod to Vardon’s Normandy roots, and signatures such as monkfish with a trio of shellfish and ‘Dieppoise’ sauce and Nicoisestyle red mullet are executed with careful finesse under the watchful eye of Nicolas Raynal. Mains such as oven-grilled macaroni and roasted lamb and veal veer on the heavy side, so make it a point to save room for dessert—largely classic French confections such as Paris Brest and Religieuse given contemporary makeovers. What the cheese trolley lacks in quantity, it makes up for in quality, and there’s a very studied wine list to quaff it down with. The open kitchen and closely set tables also means that you get to overhear loud guffaws from neighbouring diners and casual banter from the kitchen team, which can be a be rather jarring on a quiet date night.