Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong

LE 39V

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The restaurant business can be cut throat in Hong Kong, but Le

39V has chosen the best vantage point to stand out among its competitor­s. The first global offshoot of the Michelin-starred Parisian fine dining institutio­n of the same name, Le39V by French chef Frederic Vardon is perched on the 101th floor of the Internatio­nal Commerce Centre, and offers unparallel­ed views over Hong

Kong island and Victoria harbour. Food-wise, the seafood-rich menu is a nod to Vardon’s Normandy roots, and signatures such as monkfish with a trio of shellfish and ‘Dieppoise’ sauce and Nicoisesty­le red mullet are executed with careful finesse under the watchful eye of Nicolas Raynal. Mains such as oven-grilled macaroni and roasted lamb and veal veer on the heavy side, so make it a point to save room for dessert—largely classic French confection­s such as Paris Brest and Religieuse given contempora­ry makeovers. What the cheese trolley lacks in quantity, it makes up for in quality, and there’s a very studied wine list to quaff it down with. The open kitchen and closely set tables also means that you get to overhear loud guffaws from neighbouri­ng diners and casual banter from the kitchen team, which can be a be rather jarring on a quiet date night.

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