Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
OCTAVIUM
HK$1300 per person
8/F, 22 Des Voeux Road Central, Central, Hong Kong TEL: +852 2111 9395
Octavium is the younger, precocious sister to its famed sibling, Otto e Mezzo. The dining room, designed to be minimal with pops of eyecatching artwork, is intimate with tables placed just close enough to catch whispers of conversation. Service matches with Italian “pronto” efficiency, but more importantly, the food was solid. The complimentary aperitivo starters and freshly baked bread service is an indicator of what to expect. Saucing was exceptional throughout the meal with contemporary interpretations of traditional flavours like the milk-fed veal, a take on vitello tonnato and Mediterranean calamaretti—the latter served with a very fine and rich seafood broth, highlighted the fresh slices of calamari. Amidst the modern presentation, true respect to rustic and hearty flavours was present in the pastas—”the heart of Italian cuisine”, as our server exclaimed. And he was spot on, the pasta presented without fuss but full of warmth and proper al dente chew. The juxtaposition of new and old is worth commending.