Tatler Dining Guide - Hong Kong
KAETSU
HK$1000 per person
Mezzanine Floor, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
TEL: +852 2584 7722
www.hongkong.grand.hyattrestaurants.com
It’s no exaggeration to describe Kaetsu being a slice of Tokyo, with its mood lighting, hushed tones and stylish ikebana—and that’s before you get to the menu of refined nihonryori, rich with choices. Like any self-respecting Japanese restaurant, there will always be a page or two of seasonal specialties, bringing forth the finest ingredients from land and sea at their prime. It would be amiss not to order at least a few pieces of nigiri or maki from the sushi counter, which commands the centre of the room; Kaetsu’s signature roll with wagyu beef and foie gras is every bit as indulgent as it sounds, though nicely tempered with a hint of acidity in the brush of soy sauce on top. There are tried-and-tested classics here, too including the delicately flavoured matsutake mushroom soup, served in a small teapot with a wedge of sudachi lime that enlivens the savory broth. The sake menu is concise, with terse but charmingly helpful descriptors.