FOOD Goan gastronomy via a hospitality lens
The state’s food culture and the role of hospitality brands in it
Whenever I visit the tropical paradise of Goa, my rst pitstop is always at Mum’s Kitchen in Panaji for a sh recheado (a local sh preparation). Situated at a one-hour’s drive from Dabolim Airport, this charming restaurant celebrates the legacy and larger-than-life character of the Goan community with its widespread menu featuring native ingredients.
HOMEGROWN FLAVOURS
Goa’s food scene has o en been a subject of interest in cookbooks around the world. Furthermore, initiatives such as the Grape Escapade, Goa Food and Cultural Festival, Goa Cashew and Coconut Festival have helped draw focus to this cuisine, believes Rajeev Kale, president and country head – Holidays, MICE, Visa, omas Cook (India).
However, a common sentiment echoes of over tourism and a dearth of indigenous choices in India’s smallest state. Jade D’sa of at Goan Girl says, “Overall, I feel that Goan food is taking a back seat and this could be because the options for authentic local restaurants are slim. Homegrown food is now diluted to suit tourists’ palates, so once international travellers visit a couple of long-standing restaurants, they move on to other mainstream options available.” According to Chef Konark of W Goa, “Since the mid-1980s, Goa has evolved from being a laid-back state with magni cent beaches to a major international tourist destination. is has led to a dominating presence of multi-cuisine restaurants that provide fast food and international varietals.”
However, on the other hand, David Ansted, executive Chef at Grand Hyatt Goa is of the opinion that the demand for local food is sustained. He elaborates, “We are receiving consistent requests for Goan cuisine from our international and domestic customers. At the same time, the expectations of other authentic, value added cuisines are also frequently discussed among guests and chefs.”
Goa’s culinary landscape is an e ortless synthesis of Portuguese, Konkan, Arabic, African, French, Malabar, Malaysian and Chinese cultures. Its multi-dimensional, kaleidoscopic nature has encouraged boutique and large hospitality chains across the state to promote and educate tourists about the humble regional cuisine. For instance, e Lalit Golf & Spa Resort Goa has a dedicated chef who specialises in Goan food that is served at Corta’s — the resort’s vibrant beach shack. Apart from this, breakfast, lunch and dinner bu ets at the property feature traditional elements to familiarise guests with the o erings of the destination. Here, executive Chef Anurag Bainola lays a strong emphasis on the farm-toplate concept, wherein spices, herbs and vegetables are grown in their in-house garden, and the focus is always on fresh catches.
Hotels across Goa are educating tourists about regional cuisine
At e Leela Goa, the emphasis is placed on a constant connect with the local community, while introducing new recipes at their Indian ne dining restaurant, Jamavar. Shridhar Nair, general manager says, “Our chefs visit villages and work closely with families who have preserved traditional recipes over many generations.”
Similarly, Ansted and his team at Grand Hyatt Goa frequently interact with local farmers and suppliers to collect fresh and unique ingredients. In fact, they are set to launch a project called ‘Chefs on Bikes’, which is a mini-documentary on their chefs motorbiking across various small farms and boutique suppliers to source some of Goa’s hidden treasures.
Utilising its global presence to reach out and educate a larger audience about indigenous food, W Hotels recently conducted a Goan food festival in Jakarta and Bali in Indonesia. During the chef ’s workshop, they organised a shing experience for guests along with chefs and locals that was teemed with scintillating Goan dishes.
At Alila Diwa Goa’s restaurant Spice Studio, guests partake in preparing the food too. At the master-class with Chef Edia Cotta, guests learn to pick out the right
sh and even bargain with the vendor. Back at the restaurant, Chef teaches them the nuances of cooking from scratch.
ITC Grand Goa Resort & Spa is also an interesting example to exemplify the role of hospitality in creating earthy experiences rooted from the ethos of the land. An o shoot of this was through Cashew Tales, an extravagant soirée that honours the spirit of Goa. e rst edition of this was hosted last year and saw a plethora of adventure activities and festivities revolving around the region’s beloved fruit – cashew.
WHAT’S TRENDING?
Nair and Chef Bainola point out that eating organic and sustainable is the need of the hour at their hotels; and this is being highlighted through their associations with farming communities.
ITC Grand Goa Resort & Spa boasts o ering ‘luxury without compromising on sustainability’ with its new breakfast experience called the ‘Zesty Mornings’. It is based on four principles – authenticity, cra smanship, healthy ingredients, and responsible sourcing.
Adding to this, Vamsi Gadiraju, executive Chef at Hyatt Centric Candolim Goa says, “Niche cafés that focus on healthy food and organic produce are a welcome trend in the state as they serve interesting avours and use innovative cooking techniques.”
Fusion food is also catching up. D’sa has noted that restaurants are pushing themselves to be more creative in terms of their menu, food presentation, drinks and ambience; and unlike a couple of years ago, eating out today isn’t just about a meal, rather it is an experience in itself.
Surprisingly, in a land where locals swear by their seafood thali, vegetarianism is picking up. Non-vegetarian travellers to the state are developing an a nity towards green delicacies; because of animal welfare and the latter’s nutritional values.
Chef Konark states that dishes featuring the latest superfoods will also be a big hit in 2020. Another noteworthy aspect pointed out by him is the advent of molecular gastronomy and other techniques of physics that will soon take centre stage — the work for which has already begun at W Goa.
Additionally, small plates and pre-plated food seems to be the preference among millennials over silver service.
Non-vegetarian travellers to Goa are developing a nity towards green delicacies