A historian’s hard-earned travel advice
Carry lemon and never apologize for double-packing, says Bettany Hughes
Bettany Hughes, the 56-year-old historian and TV presenter, has a special expertise in ancient times and is a sought-after lecturer. She’s written several bestselling books, from her first—Helen of Troy: Goddess, Princess, Whore— to her most recent, The Seven Wonders of the Ancient World: An Extraordinary New Journey Through History’s Greatest Treasures, out on 23 April.
Hughes lives in London but spends much of the year abroad, logging about 75,000 miles in the air. Here are some hard-earned hacks Hughes has picked up while trekking everywhere from the deserts of Turkey to the backwoods of Cambodia.
Never apologize for double-packing: I always pack two suitcases, even if that means there’s excess to pay. They’ll have either identical things in each one, or almost a copy, sort of like mirror suitcases. I made a schoolgirl error last October, travelling to Trieste, Italy, to do a public lecture. “For once,” I thought, “I’m going to take one bag. What could go wrong?” And Lufthansa lost it. It meant I was stuck without my makeup, my clothes. It did turn up four or five weeks later, but I’d learned my lesson.
Try these two tricks if you’re worried about creepy-crawlies: When I was researching not just Angkor Wat but also Angkor Thom— which is behind Angkor Wat—I was really going out into the wild, where the tree roots are kind of thigh-high. I had a guide with me, and I admitted that the only two things I’m scared of in life are the dark and snakes. He said, “Don’t worry, look what I’ve got in my pocket.” It was a lemon. He said, “I promise you won’t get bitten.” Whether that’s true or not, I now always carry at least a slice with me at all times. I also wear Clarks desert boots, which go just high enough up your leg that you’re not going to get bitten. They’re just above ankle-snakebite level.
Two worthwhile souvenirs to buy in every destination: I always buy a scarf and a pot of honey. Scarves are a sunshade, they can wipe sweat, they can keep you warm, and they can work as a tourniquet if you get into trouble. And I have an archaeological collection of honey in my kitchen—a whole side wall. As a historian, I know that honey lasts sometimes for centuries.
Two Greek islands worth a special trip: I love the Greek islands. You expect them to be amazing, but Icaria is so beautiful. It’s where Icarus supposedly died when he fell to the ground, and it’s almost completely unspoiled. There are freshwater springs; there aren’t many cars. And go to Naxos, another Greek island, where a lot of the marble came from to build the Greek sculptures.
Two souvenirs worth buying in every destination: scarves and a pot of honey