CHEF’S TRAVELOGUE
A gastronomic tour of France
With so many stellar pâtisseries in France, it’s impossible to visit them all. Pastry chef Sae Takagi rounds up her top picks, which span from a Franco-japanese boutique in Paris to the original macaron purveyor in Saint-jean-de-luz.
To the uninitiated, Japanese and French pastries seem worlds apart. The former is known to be lighter on the palate and petite, while rustic French pastries tend to be larger, heartier and bolder in flavour. The exception are refined French desserts, which are similar to the Japanese style in size, details in presentation, and depth in flavour.
Take a closer look and you’ll find that both culinary cultures share an emphasis on local, seasonal produce. The terrain of the two countries is quite alike, and thus yields similar fruit each season. Some of the best peaches and cherries I’ve had are from Japan and France. When the two cultures collide, pastry magic happens.
THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME OF PARIS
Paris, of course, is the hub of the nation’s pâtisseries. There are a few in the French capital that really embody the pastry sensibilities of both France and Japan, but the first place that comes to mind is undoubtedly Morihide Yoshida’s namesake shop. It’s a tiny space in the 7th arrondissement with minimalist interiors. As there’s no indoor seating, you can purchase your pastries and sit in the park outside to indulge in the view and sweets. The petit gâteaux are delicious, but don’t miss out on the viennoiseries and dry bakes too.
In a male-dominated industry, it’s rare to find a female chef. One such talented toque is Claire Damon, who helms Des Gâteaux et du Pain. Her creations are very feminine – light, dainty and subtle. Although she’s not doing Franco-japanese pastries, her desserts are lighter and not as sweet as the usual suspects.
For chocolates, my all-time favourite is Patrick Roger in Saintgermain. You must try his Amazon lime bonbon with caramel and coated in dark chocolate – it’s the confection that won him the Grand Prix International du Chocolat in 1994.
Another interesting stop is Jacques Genin. His pastry shop is primarily known for its chocolate and pâtes de fruits, but you should also try the pâtes de légumes. I particularly love the rhubarb-flavoured version. Pierre Hermé is on everybody’s must-visit list for his inimitable macarons and Tarte Infiniment Vanille, but if you’re visiting Paris in the summer, you must sample his ice cream too. If you’ve time to spare, sign up for a class by pâtissier Christophe Michalak in his Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière boutique.
A trip to Paris for me is never complete without dropping by L’éclair de Génie, where I previously worked. Try their chouchou éclair of caramel cream topped with peanuts and coated in milk chocolate – we used to call it the snickers éclair. Trop bon!