TOP AUSTRALIAN SHIRAZ Dandelion Vineyards Lionheart of Barossa 2017 (Barossa Valley) $27.50 ★★★★★ -5

ONCE THE WINES were unveiled it was no surprise to me to discover that our top wine was produced by the brilliant winemaking duo Elena and Zar Brooks.

I first met the sometimes controversial but always energetic Zar in 2003 as a fellow judge at the Royal Melbourne Wine show. His official title at the winery is ‘typist’. I have not witnessed his typing skills, but I do know that he is an expert wine judge and a gifted marketer. However, it was when I met his very talented winemaker wife Elena a year later that I began to understand their special synergy. Dandelion Vineyards is an intellectual swirl of land, family, personality and dedication.

ANCIENT ROOTS

The vineyard from which this wine is crafted has many vines over 100 years old. Making wine from an ancient vineyard is not straightforward and very few actually get the opportunity. Thus, one can begin to understand the Brooks’ sense of generational stewardship. In Elena’s words, the 2017 vintage is a cracker. “I am so proud of this wine. This is my 10th vintage from this old vine vineyard which is now really hitting its Barossa leather straps in its 90s.”

I translate this as it’s going really well, and I couldn’t agree more.

With rich aromas of warm toast and exotic spices, this captivating wine is filled with rich, ripe fruits, dark berries, black pepper and fragrant oak. The palate is concentrated yet elegantly proportioned and it is layered with long flowing tannins.

4 / Reillys Shiraz 2016 (Clare Valley) ★★★★★ -4 $23

Generous and warm with a bouquet of sweet baking spices. The dark berry fruits flesh out the midpalate and are counterpointed with vanilla and peppercorn. Beautifully structured with great balance.

5 / Brockenchack Zip Line 2016 (Eden Valley) ★★★★★ -4 $25

From the elevated and relatively cooler Eden Valley, this vibrant, ripe wine from 90-year-old vines exudes blueberries and raspberries that intertwine beautifully with sweet vanilla oak. An elegant expression of shiraz with a generous structure and chalky tannins.

6 / Taylor Made 2017 (Clare Valley) ★★★★★ -3 $26

A deep and complex wine with violet and energetic herbal aromas that lead into a focussed palate of ripe berries, black pepper and cloves. Structured yet impeccably balanced with powdery tannins.

7 / Heirloom Barossa 2017 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★★ -7 $40

From the dynamic Brooks duo this is a classic Barossa shiraz styled with intensity and precision. The palate has everything that we expect from the region with blackberries and allspice wrapped in a velvet cushion of dark chocolate. The oak is present yet unobtrusive and the finish generous but not clammy.

8 / De Bortoli Woodfired 2017 (Heathcote) ★★★★★ -4 $25

This crowd pleaser is produced from the ancient red Cambrian soils of Heathcote and is a richly concentrated example with the generous dark fruits supported by toasty oak. It is ripe and bold with an anise spice that lends energy

9 / Langmeil Valley Floor 2016 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★★ -6 $34.70

The Barossa Valley Floor has been a prized strip of viticultural land for 180 years. This is easy to understand when it produces powerful and layered wines such as this. The steely and earthy notes are naturally softened with warm dark fruit. The tense and vibrant tannins ensure continued development.

10 / St Hallett Old Block 2015 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★★ -6 $99.99

This is the top shiraz in the stable of this iconic 70-year-old Barossa winery. It is tight yet energetic with red floral and ripe herb aromas with an intriguing palate of raspberries, cherries, toasty oak and clove and nutmeg spices. The tannins are ripe yet firm and the finish flawless.

Theory of Evolution 2017 (South Australia ★★★★★ -3 $17

Spicy and invigorating with a sweet ripe fruit texture buffered by savoury and smoky elements to give layers of interest. Packed with flavour yet showing a restraint that is endearing and delicious, especially at this price.

Elderton Estate 2016 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★ -5 $34

Made from some of the best and oldest vines on the estate this focussed style has a charming bouquet of ripe, dark berry fruits, toasted oak and cloves. This continues with a rich and spicy palate with genuine fruit warmth. The finish is framed by ripe tannins and tight acidity.

Pepperjack 2016 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★ -4 $22

A powerful and very ripe style with a toasty overlay. The full-bodied ripe core is filled with raspberries, cherries, blackcurrants and molasses. A well-structured wine that is supported by soft tannins that provide great balance and length.

Peter Lehmann The Barossan 2017 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★ -3 $18

A classic style with notes of violet, eucalyptus and sweet vanilla oak. The fresh palate is expertly balanced with flavours of ripe raspberries, dark blue fruits and blackcurrants. Very affordable and very drinkable.

Shingleback The Davey 2016 (Mclaren Vale)

★★★★ -5 $27

A robust wine with generous aromas of ripe dark fruits and roasted nuts. A typical Mclaren Vale style with a rich warm core of sweet blackberries tempered with baking spices and ripe herbs. The ripe layers of fruit are supported by steadfast fruit and oak tannins.

Wolf Blass Gold Label 2016 (Barossa Valley)

★★★★ -5 $29

Warm and spicy with an appealing bouquet of savoury ripe fruit. An alluring wine with an intriguing marriage of ripe dark fruits and white pepper tones. The definition of the youthful finish ensures longevity.

John (Eden John Duval Duval Valley) Eligo Entity ★★★★ 2014 2016 -6 $106.45 (Eden Kilikanoon Valley) Killermans ★★★★ -6 Run $61.15 2016 ★★★★ (Clare -4 $19.50 Valley)

Kirrihill 2017 (Clare Wines Valley) Gleeson & Co

★★★★ -3 $20

Lindsay (Barossa Wine Valley) Estate ★★★★ 2014 -5 $83

Mojo (Barossa 2017 Valley)

★★★★ -4 $21.95

Penfolds Max’s Shiraz Cabernet 2015 (South Australia)

★★★★ -5 $38

Rockbare 2016 (Mclaren Vale) ★★★★ -6 $34.95

Serafino 2016 (Mclaren Vale) ★★★★ -5 $29

Shaw & Smith 2016 (Adelaide Hills) ★★★★ -4 $50

Shingleback The Gate 2016 (Mclaren Vale) ★★★★ -5 $47

Sisters Run Calvary Hills 2017 (Barossa Valley)

★★★★ -4 $22.50 Best buy

The Lindsay Collection The Selector 2016 (Barossa Valley)

★★★★ -4 $21.90

Torbreck Woodcutters 2017 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★ -5 $27.30

Wallace by Ben Glaetzer 2016 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★ -5 $34

Wirra Wirra Catapult 2017 (Mclaren Vale)

★★★★ -4 $23

Wirra Wirra Woodhenge 2017 (Mclaren Vale) ★★★★ -5 $35

Wolf Blass Reserve 2016 (Langhorne Creek)

★★★★ -4 $20

Yalumba ‘Paradox’ Shiraz 2015 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★ -4 $34.19

Angove (Mclaren ★★★★ 2017 -3 Vale) $24

Barking 2016 (Clare Mad Valley) Shiraz

★★★★ - $23

Chaffey Bros Synonymous 2016 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★ -5 $27.70

De Bortoli Regional Reserve 2017 (Heathcote)

★★★★ -4 $17

Don’t Tell Gary 2017 (Victoria)

★★★★ -5 $24 Best buy

Heirloom Mclaren Vale 2017 ★★★★ -6 $40

Henschke Henry’s Seven Shiraz Grenache 2016 (Barossa Valley)

★★★★ -6 $48.40

Jacob’s Creek Double Barrel 2016 (Barossa Valley) ★★★★ -4 $24

Jaraman 2017 (Clare Valley) ★★★★ -5 $32

Jim Barry Single Vineyard 2015 (Clare Valley) ★★★★ -5 $32.45