TOP NEW ZEALAND CHARDONNAY

2020-11-01 -

Decibel Wines Testify Chardonnay by Daniel Brennan 2018 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★★ - 7 $44

DAN BRENNAN, aka Decibel Dan, is no stranger to the Cuisine wine pages, with his 2018 Bridge Pa Vineyard viognier snatching the speciality top spot in issue 196. It turns out Dan is a multi-varietal master as he’s back at the top once again with his 2018 Testify Hawke’s Bay chardonnay. Testify is Decibel’s top-tier label and is only produced in the very best vintages. In 2016 Dan made a Testify red, but produced no Testify wines at all in 2017. The long, hot summer of 2018, however, enabled the chardonnay grapes grown by the ocean in the Te Awanga hills to flourish, with Testify chardonnay 2018 proving that there’s gold in them thar (Te Awanga) hills.

Dan says that Testify is his “hand-on-heart proclamation that it is our best effort within the varietal” and the judges were inclined to agree. Head judge Ben described this wine as “an extremely classy New Zealand chardonnay with all the trimmings, yet a supple understated brilliance.”

Handpicked on 21 March 2018 the fruit was whole-bunch pressed straight into new oak barrels ‘gangster style’ with no tank settling in between. The resulting high solids helped to develop the distinctive smoky nose on this wine. Testify has struckmatch aromas upfront with bright fruit and spicy, smoky oak on the nose that seduces you willingly into the delicate, juicy palate of white peaches, green apples and citrus. Lovely nutty and brioche characters provide intrigue as the salty acidity sweeps you away to a seemingly infinite finish.

2 / Black Barn Vineyards Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2019 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★★ - 6 $39

An exquisite example of how to frame struck match, flint notes so they enhance rather than overwhelm the wine. Beautiful, ripe white stonefruit and wet-stone aromas on the nose with lovely spicy and juicy characters create a balance with a wonderfully lengthy finish.

3 / Vidal Legacy Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2019 ★★★★★ - 7 $60

A commanding example of a New Zealand chardonnay with good pedigree. Funky notes of flint and struck match on the nose with peach, fig and some apricot flowing on into the palate which has wonderful richness and weight. The youthful acidity allows this wine to dance. A fantastic example from go to whoa (and you will).

4 / Askerne ‘The Archer’ Chardonnay 2018 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★★ - 3 $49.90

The first in a new premium range from Askerne aptly named ‘Icons’, this beautifully balanced and handled chardonnay is awash with aromas of apricot stone with delicious butterscotch nuances. Generous concentrated citrus and melon characters with toasty, well-balanced oak and a sublime chewy length.

5 / Vidal Soler Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2019 ★★★★★ - 3 $35

An upfront and confident Hawke’s Bay chardonnay with flint notes, bold spice and stonefruit notes on the nose. All of these provide the perfect opening stanza for what unfolds into a powerfully built, ripe, rich long and vibrant palate with wonderful texture.

6 / Craggy Range Chardonnay Gimblett Gravels Vineyard 2019 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★★ - 5 39.95

One of the most subtle chardonnays in the top ten. Lean and lithe but very much alive and made with a great deal of finesse. A profile that is awash with apricot stone, citrus, melon and delightful nutty, brioche notes. Very smart. Very elegant.

So what has brought about this chardonnay renaissance... it’s a result of winemakers getting the balance right and letting the grapes do the talking.

7 / Mount Riley Wines 17 Valley Chardonnay 2019 (Marlborough) ★★★★ - 4 $28

A masterful example of the winemaker harnessing and exemplifying coolerclimate fruit. Nectarine stone and flesh, citrus with lemon curd and lime pith altogether with subtle, brown demerarasugar notes. A cracking Marlborough chardonnay that will be particularly good over the summer months.

8 / Wooing Tree Chardonnay 2017 (Central Otago) ★★★★ - 3 $38

A great chardonnay with a bit of age in the bottle allowing it to show its true self. Dry, yet long and juicy with melon and white-peach notes and just enough nuttiness to spark intrigue. Lovely wet-stone characteristic and lively, fresh, bright acidity make this a lip-smacking chardonnay.

9 / Villa Maria Keltern Chardonnay 2018 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★ - 6 $80

From Villa’s premier Keltern vineyard, this chardonnay has musings of a potential gunpowder plot on the nose. A very impressive wine with glorious nectarine and peach notes, oak spice and taut acidity on the palate which unfurls to a lengthy complex and altogether satisfying finish.

10 / Petane ‘Puriri Block’ Chardonnay 2019 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★ - 9 $30

Bright and light in the glass this is an elegant chardonnay with some very smart oak and intriguing secondary notes of nougat and a hint of marzipan. Lovely round ripe stonefruit amidst a complex and creamy palate.

Ara Single Estate Chardonnay 2019 (Marlborough)

★★★★ - 8 $22

Delta Hatters Hill Chardonnay 2019 (Marlborough)

★★★★ - 6 $27

Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2018

★★★★ - 4 $20

Hunter’s Chardonnay 2019 (Marlborough)

★★★★ - 6 $24.90

Nautilus Chardonnay 2019 (Marlborough) ★★★★ - 4 $39

Pask Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay 2018 (Hawke’s Bay)

★★★★ - 3 $22

Pyramid Valley Marlborough Chardonnay 2018