LOCAL HEROES

Martin Bosley enjoys the plentiful produce and abundant flavours of the Waitaki region.

Martin Bosley explores the artisan food scene of the abundant Waitaki region

Sitting between Dunedin and Timaru lies the district of Waitaki, combining the wild, windswept eastern coastline, the haunting, natural beauty of the Mackenzie plains, the towering, terrifying Southern Alps and reaching around Twizel towards Lake Tekapo. Over the ranges lies the West Coast, Haast and Aoraki/mount Cook. A trip down the underwhelmingly named Waitaki Valley Road will take you from Ōmarama with its panoramic views, past the pure mountain lakes of Aviemore and the Benmore dam, down through rugged yet charming, peaceful countryside to the historic town of Ōamaru and its whitestone Victorian architecture and magical public gardens.

Head south from Ōamaru and you’ll pass through Moeraki, home to two New Zealand icons: the 65-millionyear-old Moeraki Boulders and Fleur Sullivan’s seafood restaurant, Fleurs Place. Such is its reputation that when Rick Stein was asked several years ago which restaurant in the world he most wanted to go to, Fleurs Place was his answer. The trip was duly arranged. Fishing used to be a big part of the local economy with many local fishers operating day boats out of Moeraki harbour. It has sadly since fallen away, with only a couple of fishers left today. Now it is farmed Chinook (King) salmon that the region is becoming justly famous for.

Just south of Twizel, situated in the glacial hydro-canal waters of Wairepo Arm, is the boutique High Country

Salmon farm. Established in 2000, it is one of the oldest freshwater salmon farms in New Zealand. The constant flow of pure, ice-cold water through the canals results in a fish with an incredibly clean flavour, distinct mineral notes and a non-oily texture; the flesh is creamy, almost soft. highcountrysalmon.co.nz

Kakanui Tomatoes sells direct from its farm in North Otago or will deliver just-picked tomatoes straight to your door. Store them in a bowl out of the fridge, as the cold dulls their flavour. There is nothing like biting through crisp, taut skin, the warm, sweet-sour juice filling your mouth. facebook.com/kakanui.tomatoes

At Sunday’s Ōamaru Farmers’ Market you’ll find Anna and Daniel from Waitaki Mushrooms. Recent arrivals in Ōamaru from Auckland, they are passionate about mushrooms, in particular Phoenix Oyster mushrooms. With a fan-shaped cap, they have a delicate texture and a mild, savoury, woody flavour. They can be eaten raw but when cooked become soft and velvety and have a savoury anise taste. waitakimushrooms.nz

Waitaki Orchards is a total family affair – mum, dad and six children work in the business growing stone fruits. A ripe apricot, rust brown with freckled cheeks, could be the most perfect of fruits, the stuff of dreams. I buy my stone fruits on the firm side and ripen them at home until they are yielding and fragrant. Sometimes, this doesn’t work, and the fruit stubbornly refuses to ripen and remains on the sour side. These underwhelming specimens respond to the warmth of the grill or barbecue. Sliced in half, pitted, brushed with oil and seasoned they can be cooked until they soften; as a dessert they need nothing more than a scoop of ice cream. Tucked in against a side of grilled salmon, the lightly charred flesh is a pleasing contrast against the richness of the salmon. waitakiorchards.co.nz

GRILLED SALMON WITH A WARM SALAD OF NECTARINES & APRICOTS SERVES 4 / PREPARATION 20 MINUTES / COOKING 20 MINUTES

Cooking the salmon with the stone fruits and mushrooms is not only efficient, it infuses them with flavour. Make sure to buy the salmon in one piece, with the skin on; portioned pieces will cook too fast, before the fruits are tender. Serve this with a side dish of ripe tomatoes.

680g piece of High Country Salmon 100ml olive oil

4 sprigs thyme

FOR THE SALAD juice of 1 lemon

50ml olive oil

4 sprigs thyme

12 cornichons

4 apricots

4 nectarines

100g oyster mushrooms

20 basil leaves

1 punnet of mixed microgreens 30g sliced almonds, lightly toasted

Heat a fan grill to 180℃ and line a rimmed, shallow baking tray with baking paper. Pat the salmon dry with absorbent paper towels. Run your fingers over the flesh side, feeling for any thin, white pin bones and use a pair of tweezers to pull them out. Season the flesh side with sea salt and place flesh-side down on the baking tray. Drizzle olive oil over the skin side of the salmon and season with more sea salt and the thyme sprigs.

Mix together the lemon juice and olive oil, season with salt and pepper and the leaves from the thyme sprigs. Slice the cornichons in half lengthways and place into a large mixing bowl. Halve the apricots and nectarines, remove the stones, then slice into quarters and add to the bowl. Tear the oyster mushrooms into rough pieces, add to the bowl and toss everything together with the lemon juice dressing.

Scatter the fruit around the salmon, tucking it in. Pour any leftover dressing over the fruit and slide the tray into the middle of the oven. Grill for 15-20 minutes with the oven door closed, until the skin is golden and crisp. Check frequently to make sure the skin is not burning. Remove from the oven. Scatter over the basil, microgreens and almonds and serve. If you prefer to present the salad and the fish separately, carefully lift the fruit and mushrooms into a mixing bowl and pour any juices from the baking tray in with them. Add the basil leaves, microgreens and toasted almonds. Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Pile the salad loosely onto a serving dish and lift the salmon onto a platter.

SIMPLE TOMATO SALAD SERVES 4 / PREPARATION 5 MINUTES PLUS 10 MINUTES RESTING TIME

600g ripe tomatoes

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil,

plus extra to drizzle

1 handful basil leaves

Cut the tomatoes into different-sized slices and chunks, removing the core. Place them into a bowl and sprinkle with sea salt, leave to sit for 10 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and toss together. Arrange the tomatoes in a serving bowl, roughly tear the basil leaves and scatter over the top. Drizzle the remaining olive oil over and season with a touch more salt.