Cuisine

VEGETABLE MEDLEY

Veges take part in a choreograp­hed parade – then and now

- CLAIRE MCCALL

1948

What strength of character it must have taken to work the line in a factory of the 1940s. Here, the humble pea, in not-so-humble numbers, is sorted with dexterity and evident grit by women at Dobson’s Frozen Food in Marlboroug­h. While the nostalgic view of the time is of growing vegetables in the fresh air in quarter-acre suburbia, fresh-minted technologi­es meant convenienc­e foods were on the rise. Post-war, women made up the bulk of the labour force that lined up on conveyor belts to bring products, such as the ever-popular frozen pea, to the Kiwi table. While it got them out of the kitchen, they hadn’t moved far.

2020

A snapshot memory from Ann Shelton’s childhood: gathering peas with her grandmothe­r, youth and wisdom stooped on the fringes of a South Canterbury field, hand-plucking pods that escaped the farmer’s scythe. Such a visceral connection with the harvest is now rare among city-folk, which inspired the artist to explore food sustainabi­lity, security and ethics in an eco-exhibition. This photograph, The Green Vein, is an offshoot of that, a still taken from a performanc­e rehearsal. The concept visually embodies the microbial processes of growth to inspire a reconnecti­on with the technology of nature. “Nature has a set of workings and mechanisms that operate effectivel­y,” says Ann. “Nature and technology are not diametrica­lly opposed.” Fruit and vegetables depicted in art is nothing new, but this performanc­e cleaves it from the traditiona­l still life. Although we may have forgotten our roots, it’s temporary. To dirt we will return.

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