WINE TASTINGS
The best chardonnay and non-aromatic white varieties
THE VENERABLE Jancis Robinson has gone on record more than once lauding the quality of New Zealand’s cool-climate chardonnay. She believes that this is the varietal for which we should be globally known, not sauvignon blanc. It’s a huge claim given the success of New Zealand sauvignon around the world, but you would be hardpressed to find a local chardonnay lover who doesn’t agree with Jancis’ opinion – not least all the judges who surveyed the selection of New Zealand and international chardonnays submitted for this issue.
While the 2019 chardonnays triumphed over newer 2020 wines, head judge Ben Glover assures us that this is really just a case of good things - like chardonnay needing time. The 2019s truly showed class across regions and styles. The top three, in particular, are diverse across region and style, but all hold in common incredible fruit and skilled winemakers who know how to make it shine in the glass.
TASTING PANEL
Ben Glover, owner and head winemaker for Zephyr Wines in Marlborough and internationally regarded wine judge, led this panel and was joined by two experienced wine professionals: Renée Dale, founder of Moi Wines and assistant winemaker at Westbrook Winery; and Tamra Kelly-washington, winemaker for the eponymous Kelly Washington Wines and consultant winemaker for Seresin.
TASTING RESULTS
★★★★★ outstanding 7
★★★★ excellent 3
★★★★ very good 20
★★★ good 40
No award 61
TOTAL 131
BEST BUYS
Those wines offering an outstanding mix of quality and price are awarded Best Buy status. Price points differ, depending on the varietal, but if you see the Best Buy sticker you can rest assured you’re getting a great wine at an excellent price. Look out for the sticker on wine bottles at all good wine retailers. 1 Bouldevines Vineyard Rapaura Springs Chardonnay 2019 Marlborough ★★★★★ $36.90
2 Trinity Hill 125 Gimblett Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay
★★★★★ $80
3 Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Chardonnay 2019
★★★★★ $40
4 Smith & Sheth CRU Howell 2019 Hawke’s Bay
★★★★★ $60
5 Villa Maria Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2019
★★★★★ $40
6 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay
★★★★★ $40
7 Saint Clair Pioneer Block 11 Cell Block Chardonnay 2020 Marlborough ★★★★★ $34.90
8 Squawking Magpie Counting Crows Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay ★★★★ $33.95
9 Smith & Sheth CRU Heretaunga Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay
$40
★★★★
10 Whitehaven Marlborough Chardonnay 2020 ★★★★ $28 1
TOP CHARDONNAY Bouldevines Vineyard Rapaura Springs Chardonnay 2019 Marlborough
- 3 $36.90 ★★★★★
A chardonnay from Marlborough taking top spot reinforces the point that this region can do so much more than sauvignon. This single-vineyard wine comes from the Rapaura Springs’ Bouldevines Vineyard in Omaka Valley, where the cooler climate enables grapes to retain the levels of acid needed for fresh, vibrant wines. Although the start of the 2019 season was tricky, with higher rainfall in spring, the summer was long and hot, which ensured rapid ripening and an earlier start to the harvest than expected. Grapes were whole-bunch pressed and put in a combination of new and older oak barrels to undergo a wild ferment, and had 10 months’ ageing before bottling. This wine captured our judges immediately, with powerful presence in the glass and aromas of stonefruit, citrus pith, and glinting gunsmoke on the nose, with a hint of incense. The palate is smartly structured with power and balance. Flavours of white peach, chargrilled nectarine and salted lime are backed with hints of nutty oak, freshly baked cinnamon and spice roll-ups. A superb example of restrained power; the perfect marriage of intensity and class.
2 / Trinity Hill 125 Gimblett Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay ★★★★★ - 6 $80
A relaxed wine with supple power, toasted mealy aromas complete with melon, citrus pith, nutty peach stone, and subtle flint shine on the nose. On the palate this is a dense wine with superb balance, poised weight and textural elegance that allows that citrus pith along with fresh young apple to shine. Incredible length leading to a stunning finish.
3 / Pyramid Valley North Canterbury Chardonnay 2019 ★★★★★ - 5 $40
A wine with beautiful balance and a relaxed naturalness. Nutty brioche, struck flint, rock melon and a twist of oldfashioned lemonade abound on the nose. The lemonade lime and citrus characters continue onto the palate and provide brilliant drive and harmony. Incredible acidity and a salivating mouthfeel entice you to have another glass of this intense, elegant and seductive chardonnay.
Thank you to Antipodes for supplying the water to our tasting panel.
4 / Smith & Sheth CRU Howell 2019 Hawke’s Bay ★★★★★ - 3 $60
A chardonnay that is relaxed, subdued and inquisitive, with mealy peach husk on the nose. All elements in this wine exist in superb harmony. It delivers a sensational ethereal mouthfeel of citrus, wet riverstone with oyster-shell minerality beautifully woven throughout. Taunt and textured, with sublime balance and length.
5 /Villa Maria Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2019 ★★★★★ - 6 $40
A rich, powerful style of chardonnay standing tall to make itself known in a crowded room. Grilled stonefruit and lovely integrated oak aromas on the nose follow through to a full, rich, rounded, and just simply delicious palate of pear and citrus pith. The oak on the palate is very deftly handled and it perfectly complements the fruit flavours present in the wine.
6 /Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay ★★★★★ - 2 $40
The nose on this wine presents a lovely melody of citrus, ripe white peach and savoury cashew and it has just enough flintiness to add intrigue. This is a beautifully elegant chardonnay that absolutely delivers on the palate. It has a subtle power that has been crafted through intelligent handling by the winemaker of exquisite acidity and oak balance providing great length and moreishness.
7 /Saint Clair Pioneer Block 11 Cell Block Chardonnay 2020 Marlborough ★★★★★ - 5 $34.90
Beguiling aromas of mealy savoury oak notes with a hint of struck match and gunpowder, but still allowing the white stonefruits of peach and nectarine to shine through. A well-poised and balanced, youthful chardonnay with juicidity and presence, combined with a hint of vanilla and baked peach, that delivers an exciting, long, vibrant finish.
8 / Squawking Magpie Counting Crows Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay ★★★★ - 2 $33.95
Toasty oak and a hint of terracotta interlaced with nutty fennel, grapefruit, white peach and a twist of sweet sage tingle the taste buds and leaves a sense of enjoyment. That toasty, mealy oak reappears again on the palate, interlaced with fine stonefruit notes, juicy acidity and a gentle yet powerful acid spine that helps to deliver the perfect lengthy finish.
9 / Smith & Sheth CRU Heretaunga Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay ★★★★ - 3 $40
On the nose, pears and clementines combine with classy yet humble oak characters that work alongside the nutty complexity that travels through to the palate. Bracing acidity plays a key role in delivering an electric palate alive with a beguiling salted-lemon character and wonderful mouthfeel that enhances the taut yet supple palate.
10 / Whitehaven Marlborough Chardonnay 2020
★★★★ - 5 $28
White tropical fruits and biscuity brioche combine with hints of sweet lemon meringue pie on the nose. This and a steely spine of taut acidity make for a lovely harmony. Wonderful texture and poise feature throughout the palate, which has been very smartly crafted by the winemaker.
Askerne ‘The Archer’ Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay ★★★★ - 5 $49.90
Church Road 1 Tuki Tuki Chardonnay 2018 Hawke’s Bay ★★★★ - 6 $70
Church Road Mcdonald Series Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay
★★★★ - 4 $25
Clearview Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay ★★★★ - 9 $45
Coopers Creek Swamp Reserve Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay
★★★★ - 3 $40
Delta Estate Hatters Hill Chardonnay 2020 Marlborough
★★★★ - 4 $27
Helio Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay ★★★★ - 4 $35
Jackson Estate Shelter Belt Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 Marlborough ★★★★ - 3 $24
Lake Chalice Plume Chardonnay 2016 Marlborough
★★★★ - 2 $50
Lawson’s Dry Hills Reserve Chardonnay 2020 Marlborough
★★★★ - 5 $28
Marisco The Craft Series Pioneer Chardonnay 2016 Marlborough ★★★★ - 3 $65
Marisco The King’s Bastard Chardonnay 2019 Marlborough
★★★★ - 3 $29
Pask Declaration Gimblett Gravels Chardonnay 2019 Hawke’s Bay
★★★★ - 3 $40
Petaluma Piccadilly Chardonnay 2019 South Australia
★★★★ - 7 $40 (A)
Rapaura Springs Reserve Chardonnay 2020 Marlborough
★★★★ - 4 $19
Seifried Nelson Chardonnay 2019
★★★★ - 3 $20
Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Chardonnay 2020 Marlborough
★★★★ - 4 $25
Testify by Daniel Brennan Chardonnay 2020 Hawke’s Bay
★★★★ - 6 $44
Vasse Felix Premier Chardonnay 2019 Margaret River Australia
★★★★ - 5 $41.95 (B)
Villa Maria Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay 2019 ★★★★ - 4 $35 DISTRIBUTORS
(A) Hancocks – hancocks.co.nz
(B) Negociants – negociants.com/nz/home
HAILING FROM THE northern Rhône region of France, marsanne is commonly blended with roussanne and is also permitted to be blended – in small quantities – into the renowned red wines of the region. For the most part marsanne grapes are made into dry, medium-bodied white wines that are oak aged and cellar well for long periods of time. As such, it is commonly said that those who enjoy chardonnay are likely to enjoy a glass of marsanne. One thing to be wary of is that marsanne can have high alcohol content – in some cases as much as 15%.
Marsanne loves warm, dry conditions, so it’s not surprising that this one hails from Gisborne and is named ‘Allison’ after grape grower Doug’s greatest joy, his Allison
V-1710 V12 aircraft engine, lovingly restored and apparently running well. If you fancy a bit of aeronautical history to go with your wine knowledge, then you’ll be interested to know that the Allison V-1710 was the only Us-developed V12 liquid-cooled engine to see service during World War II.
But I digress. This is thought to be the first marsanne made in New Zealand and it definitely impressed our panel with its smoky church incense character on the nose, mixed with beeswax and apricot kernel. Although a 2015 vintage, the accumulated bottle age adds to the charm and intrigue of this vibrant wine. Rich and luscious on the mid-palate with both nashi and bosc pear flesh characters rounding out this dense, almost crunchy wine.
Cecchi Orvieto Classico DOC 2019 Umbria, Italy ★★★★ - 1 $18 (A)
DISTRIBUTORS
(A) Hancocks – hancocks.co.nz