Cuisine

THE VEGAN BAKING BIBLE

KAROLINA TEGELAAR, PAVILION GB, $55

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We need to talk about aquafaba. Hailed as the miracle egg replacemen­t of vegan baking, it’s used a lot here, but don’t imagine it’s as easy as merely draining a tin of chickpeas. This book explains exactly how to use it, and other vegan ingredient­s, to get the right results for the each type of cake, with reassuring step-by-step pictures. The ultimate ‘how-to’ book, it’s almost textbook-like in its painstakin­g detail: if you’ve ever wondered ‘What happens if I bake a cake with tofu instead of egg (or indeed 14 other egg replacemen­ts)?’, ‘What if I use twice as much fat?’ or ‘Can I half the mixing time?’ then Dr Karolina has put in 10 years of hard work and rigorous trial-and-error to give you the answers, and the show-and-tell photos

demonstrat­e exactly what will happen. It’s not the prettiest of cookbooks, but comprehens­ive it certainly is, and it pays to read all the introducto­ry text before you get baking. The author says, “I hate the low standards that are so common in vegan baking. I have hated them ever since I became a vegan over a decade ago, when I realized what people would accept and what was served as vegan.the whole point of baking is that it should be luxurious and decadent.” So, if you’re tired of the well-meaning but brick-like bars, sad slices and leaden cakes so often offered as vegan bakes, here you have the wherewitha­l to make sky-high layer cakes, fluffy Genoise and even pastries such as pain au chocolate, meringues, biscuits, pancakes, pies, brownies, gingerbrea­d, ice cream and yeasted doughs. There are interestin­g Scandavian flavours, too, such as Swedish kladdkaka, snoddas (love cakes) and syltgrotta (thumb cookies). Come here for all your favourites made vegan without compromisi­ng on taste. Look out for it in stores in August. TW

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