Cuisine

TOP PINOT GRIS

Saint Clair Godfrey’s Creek Reserve Pinot Gris 2020 (Marlboroug­h) ★★★★★ - 2 $33.90

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HOW WONDERFUL to see a pinot gris at the top of the list that has a few years under its belt. It’s commonly thought that pinot gris isn’t a varietal to age, with ‘best suited to immediate enjoyment’ achieving almost slogan status so regularly is it seen on pinot gris tasting notes. Yet this example truly goes to show that the great ones have ageability in spades.

Those familiar with the Saint Clair brand will know its commitment to displaying the specific vineyards or areas that the wines come from on their labels as part of the wine’s name. This serves to celebrate the subregion or, as for this wine, the exact vineyard that the grapes for this beautiful single vineyard pinot gris come from. In this case it’s Godfrey’s Creek, which is located at the end of the Brancott Valley in Marlboroug­h and is one of Saint Clair’s top producing vineyards when it comes to aromatics.

Single vineyard wines are pretty special; when you see it on a label it’s an assurance that every grape used in that wine came from only one vineyard. It means that a specific vineyard had vines that were of such a high calibre that nothing else needed to be blended in from another vineyard or subregion to make it complete – a pretty big call when you consider that the vast majority of wines are blended. It also means that these wines come at a premium, but you can be assured that it is worth it. This pinot gris is understate­d with baked pears, lemon peel and sweet spices on the nose. You would be forgiven for thinking that perhaps the palate might be holding a little something back but nothing could be further from the truth. Abundant with flavours of stone fruit, the palate is juicy and weighted with incredible texture and mouthfeel and fantastic acid that adds focus and drive to the persistent and satisfying­ly long finish.

2 / Ayrburn Pinot Gris 2022 (Central Otago) ★★★★★ - 3 $32

Ripe lemon and poached pear alongside apricot and ginger spice aromas stream from the glass on this aromatical­ly abundant pinot gris. The off-dry palate is fresh and inviting with lovely texture and wellbalanc­ed acidity. The finish is long and clean with a delightful floral aftertaste.

3 / Wairau River Estate Marlboroug­h Pinot Gris 2022 ★★★★★ - 2 $19.95

Citrus, stone fruit and a hint of thiol are present on the nose with flinty complexity set against delicate florals. The palate is bright and fresh with poached pear, white peaches and lemon zest flavours with excellent weight, fine texture and vibrant acidity. The finish is persistent and tasty.

4 / Two Rivers Phoenix Pinot Gris 2022 (Marlboroug­h) ★★★★ - 3 $25

There’s lots happening aromatical­ly with citrus, jasmine, green pear, quince, bergamot and jasmine all working in beautiful harmony on the nose. Equally, the palate is full without being cluttered, with ripe juicy fruit flavours held taut by refreshing acidity and leading to a crisp, lingering finish.

5 / Villa Maria Earthgarde­n Pinot Gris 2021 (Hawke’s Bay) ★★★★ - 2 $20

The nose here is very ripe but without being overdone. Aromas of ripe Asian pear, apricots, apples and spice gives the impression of richness within. The palate is loaded with flavour but is held in balance by its fantastic structure. A rich and voluptuous example that finishes clean.

6 / Neck of the Woods Central Otago Pinot Gris 2022 ★★★★ - 3 $28

Lifted apples and pears are immediate on the nose alongside jasmine florals. The nose is reflected in the palate, matched with beeswax and lemon peel citrus flavours. The sweetness evident on the palate is well balanced by the bright crisp acid. A very moreish example.

7 / Gustave Lorentz Reserve Pinot Gris 2021 (Alsace, France) ★★★★ - 2 $31

Excellent aroma intensity with ripe yellow peaches and lemon citrus on the nose. The palate sits on the riper end of the scale with stone fruit and the suggestion of oak influence. The flavours present are persistent and lovely, as is the smooth, bright acidity and the long finish. (A)

8 / Saint Clair Pioneer Block 5 Bull Block Pinot Gris 2022 (Omaka Valley, Marlboroug­h) ★★★★ - 4 $26.90

An elegant bouquet that is full of aromas of poached pear, ripe pear, ginger spice and delicate florals. These aromas segue through to the palate alongside rockmelon flavours and bright acid which serves to hold the sweetness present in beautiful balance.

A range of styles both local and internatio­nal shone through... wines that are transparen­t with pristine fruit, bright structure in the glass and ultimate drinkabili­ty.

Eight Ranges Trail Rider Pinot Gris 2022 (Central Otago)

★★★★ - 3 $23

Jules Taylor Pinot Gris 2021 (Marlboroug­h) ★★★★ - 1 $29

Lawsons Dry Hills Pinot Gris 2022 (Marlboroug­h) ★★★★ - 2 $20

Rapaura Springs Reserve Marlboroug­h Pinot Gris 2022 ★★★★ - 2 $20

Villa Maria Reserve Pinot Gris 2021 (Marlboroug­h) ★★★★ - 3 $25

Waipara Hills Pinot Gris 2022 ★★★★ - 2 $19.90

DISTRIBUTO­R

(A) Eurovintag­e eurovintag­e.co.nz

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