Cuisine

LET’S GET CRACKING

MARY-THERESE BLAIR discovers mouthwater­ing rieslings oozing with pure fruit flavours.

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I FEEL LIKE I’m always going on (and on) about the glories of riesling and this lineup of New Zealand and internatio­nal rizzas did little to dispel my enthusiasm or that of the judges who were absolutely bewitched. The delightful array of styles on the judging table reinforced our collective belief in the quality and sheer drinkabili­ty of New Zealand riesling.

While there’s no doubt that riesling can age superbly and will reward the patient imbiber, there’s just something about the crack of a new release riesling which has had mere months in bottle and under tin; fresh and oozing citrus aromas with gloriously pure fruit and bright acid on the palate. Ooof! My mouth is watering just thinking about it and hopefully yours is, too.

What a selection we have for you from all over the South Island as well as an Aussie stunner from across the ditch. So get cracking.

TOP RIESLING Old Coach Road Nelson Riesling 2020 - 3 $16 ★★★★★

THE LITTLE SISTER brand of Nelson’s Seifried Estate, the Old Coach Road brand was created to bring the best of the Nelson region to the New Zealand public at an affordable price. Easy drinking, these accessible wines are unapologet­ic crowd pleasers, and please a (small) crowd of wine judges this one most certainly did.

The wine is a blend of Seifried’s two Nelson vineyards. The Brightwate­r vineyard is situated 15km from the coast and has a challengin­g topography that is mostly rocks and boulders. While that sounds like a nightmare, the large percentage of stone holds the heat of the sun and helps with grape ripening. The second vineyard is Redwood Valley vineyard, an unirrigate­d, gently sloping, north-facing site that has vines ranging in age from 10 to 30 years. This hallowed combinatio­n of optimal ripening alongside fruit intensity from aged vines has resulted in this fantastica­lly impressive riesling.

Off dry with just the loveliest hint of fruit sweetness, this example has aromas of lime pith, elderflowe­rs and ripe apple on the nose which are also present on the palate alongside

delicious lime cordial and pear flavours. The purity of the fruit used in this riesling shines through in the glass with bold steely acid on the juicy and intense palate. All of the different facets of this wine work perfectly in harmony and the flavours and aromas seem infinite with a long and moreish finish. This riesling seriously delivers on every front, including a low impact on your pocket – at only $16 this is the very best of best buys.

2 / Ayrburn Riesling 2022 (Central Otago) ★★★★★ - 6 $34

Delicate stone fruit and lime sorbet aromas with white florals combine to make this nose instantly appealing. The palate is soft and refreshing with fine flow, excellent concentrat­ion and mouthwater­ing stony minerality. The finish is long, juicy and incredibly satisfying.

3 / Lawsons Dry Hills Riesling 2019 (Marlboroug­h) ★★★★★ - 3 $20

Toasty and complex aromatic characters abound with lemon curd, ripe apple and stone fruit aromas on the nose. The off-dry palate is well weighted with lovely texture and juicy, racy acidity gives precious length leading to a persistent finish.

4 / Kirrihill Partner Series Clare Valley Riesling 2022 (Australia) ★★★★★ - 4 $25

Lovely tropical fruits and lemonlime aromas sit alongside delicate white jasmine on the expressive and inviting nose. The palate is dry and has fantastic intensity with lemon pith and lime curd in spades. Fresh with firm acidity and a well structured finish.

5 / Tohu Whenua Awa Riesling 2019 (Awatere, Marlboroug­h)

★★★★★ - 4 $26

Pale in colour with clean citrus and beeswax aromas teeming from the glass. The palate is crisp and fresh with pears, lemons and green apple crunch. An example that is alive and zingy with juicy fruit and fantastic flavour carrying through to a long finish.

6 / Saint Clair Pioneer Block 9 Big John Riesling 2020 (Marlboroug­h) ★★★★ - 5 $26.90

Apricot and lemon zest with green tea aromas on the complex and aromatic nose of this example. The palate is juicy and mouthwater­ing with lime zest and rockmelon flavours present. The subtle sweetness is harmonious­ly balanced with taut acidity.

7 / Mora Riesling 2022 (Bannockbur­n, Central Otago) ★★★★ - 8 $35

Fresh and clean with expressive citrus on the nose against subtle peaches and white blossom aromas. The palate has apricot and orange peel with lemon curd that reflects the sweetness present. Juicy fruit sweetness is well balanced with refreshing acidity.

Lake Chalice The Falcon Riesling 2022 (Marlboroug­h) ★★★★ - 6 $20

Old Coach Road Nelson Riesling 2022

★★★★ - 4 $16

Saving Grace Riesling 2021 (Waipara) ★★★★ - 5 $28

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