STILBAAI
“Believe me, my young friend,” says Rat to Mole in the Kenneth Grahame classic The Wind in the Willows, “there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”
My thoughts always drift towards Rat and Mole when I’m floating on a kayak down the Goukou River, wending its way slowly towards Stilbaai on the southern Cape coast. With its reedy banks and dark waters, it seems just the kind of place where the two would have hung out.
It’s also become my family’s go-to getaway every autumn, when we stuff the car with kayaks and fishing rods and board games and binoculars for a few days of chilling out next to Old Man River.
Our bolthole of choice is Wild Olive Farm, a charming riverside spot run by Karen and John Harding. Their small farm offers a pair of wooden chalets overlooking the riverside olive grove, but we prefer the child-friendly Apple Tree Cottage a short way up the hill.
It’s a simple yet cosy country escape that sleeps four comfortably, or six at a squeeze. A honking donkey (Jojo) and friendly horse (Oscar) roam the pastures below the cottage, and will come looking for carrots when you light the braai in the evenings.
Don’t bother packing eggs, leafy greens, jams or pickles: Karen’s kitchen, their lush organic veggie gardens and the farm’s free-range chickens take care of all that. Need fresh bread? Chat to Karen and a loaf of piping-hot sweet potato bread will appear on your doorstep each morning. It’s superb with those fresh farm eggs.
Stilbaai is just 10 kilometres away, and offers plenty of distraction from lazy days on the river. Stilbaai Point is one of the more famous surf breaks in the Cape, while the beaches inshore of the small harbour offer safe, shallow waters for children. We also make a point of driving out to Skulpiesbaai Nature Reserve, arriving at low tide to explore the ancient fish traps.
If you prefer your fish already battered, head for Seespens on Main Street. We like to take our parcel of vis en tjips down to the riverside picnic area. There are a few decent cafés for cakes and light bites near the bridge over the Goukou – a fine fishing spot, if you fancy casting a line – but the other local favourite is The Press Room, a few kilometres out of town. Along with hearty breakfasts, they’re known for their excellent thin-base pizzas. It’s also right alongside the wonderful Inverroche Distillery, where you can do tutored gin tastings and tours of the distillery. Don’t forget to grab a bottle for sundowners back on the farm; G&Ts with a twist of farm lemon.