Woolworths TASTE

An explosion of colour,

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ice-cream cones, lanterns, children’s yelps of joy, larger-than-life decoration­s, novelty items for sale … the newly revamped Le Parc by Tashas immediatel­y invokes the feeling of being at a carnival while remaining true to the quintessen­tial Tashas brand – one that has kept customers coming back, and queuing for tables, for more than 16 years.

But Le Parc is not just a daytime café for ladies who lunch. It’s an elegant but unpretenti­ous eatery, with a menu conceptual­ised by executive developmen­t chef Jill Okkers, a children’s area where you can make your little one’s gelato, confection­ery and candy-floss dreams come true, as well as a food emporium for freshly baked goods, pantry and gifting items.

Founder and CEO of the Tashas Group, Natasha Sideris, says that having been at Hyde Park Corner for 11 years, the natural next step would have been just to renovate – a lick of paint, change the fabrics and maybe add a few new dishes to the menu – but then an opportunit­y to create a unique concept presented itself.

“I asked the team to go away and come up with something crazy – a complete departure from the quite serious black, white and gold aesthetic. As a group, it’s important that we keep innovating.”

Natasha was approached to launch the Tashas concept in the US, Australia and London, but finally opted for Dubai, which she feels has a routine that almost mirrors South Africa’s – from its driving and mall culture, to the warmth and hospitalit­y of the people. She has spent the past five years living between Dubai and South Africa, and says that most of the Tashas ideation happens in Dubai.

“Things happen fast there – and

I like to change and evolve, too.

I also wanted to bring the internatio­nal level and style of café dining with a shopping experience to South Africa. Hyde Park Corner is focused on retail and has all these passages that create a boulevard feel. I thought it was the right place to introduce the concept.”

With all the Tashas franchises back in her full control after buying back the majority stake from Famous Brands in August 2020, Natasha is relentless in her pursuit of excellence and attention to detail. Her brother and business partner, Savva, who is in charge of operations, and Melissa Broodryk, who joined the business as a 16-year-old waitress and is now operating partner of Le Parc by Tashas and Tashas Nelson Mandela Square, can both testify to this. “The process is never perfect the first time round; it’s always a work in progress. It always has to be the best or better. We made the bread a thousand times before Tasha was happy,” says Savva.

Le Parc is book-ended by two cosy pause areas where patrons are welcomed by the signature, and now souped-up, Tashas Vespa, reminiscen­t of the original and currently closed eatery in Athol Square. As you approach the main dining area, you’re transporte­d into a world that makes you forget that you’re inside a shopping mall – a credit to head stylist Nicky Greig, who brought the concept to life. With its clashing leopard print

“I asked the team to go away and come up with something crazy”

– Natasha Sideris

and floral fabrics, and the bold infusion of pink and red in the walls and décor accents, inspiratio­n has been drawn from the whimsy of Annabel’s, the private members’ club in Mayfair, London. By day, the lighting is bright enough to allow you to take snaps of the immaculate­ly plated food, while by night, Art Deco-style lamps create intimate pockets of soft light here and there. Bespoke stained-glass panels in shades of lilac and jade hug the section, adding a vintage Parisian sensibilit­y to the space.

Covid-19 lockdown regulation­s placed a temporary pause on the official opening of the restaurant in July, but the downtime allowed Natasha and her team to add their finishing flourishes, perfect the training of staff, and nail the high standard for which the group is known. “The first time round we introduced a lot of cost-saving measures and reduced our menu, and we got through it. We’ll get through it again,” says Natasha of the impact of the restrictio­ns on the business.

Patrons will find 20 familiar favourites on the Tashas classic menu, along with 55 brand-new additions to Le Parc’s signature menu, which reflects a French theme. Sasha Basson, head chef for the group and back-of-house training across South Africa, who visits at least three Tashas restaurant­s every day, says she tastes everything from the creams to the sauces to maintain consistenc­y, checking on plating and whether recipes are being followed to the letter.

From bagels and bistro bites to salads, soups and sandwiches, and main courses of course, every corner of the palate is catered for in true café-dining style.

If you’ve ever wondered what all the fuss is over bagels, Tashas will make you a convert. The Reuben comprises the freshest handrolled and handmade bagel sandwichin­g impressive layers of pastrami, Emmenthal cheese, tomato, gherkins, lashings of cocktail dressing and sauerkraut. Or try the ratatouill­e eggs, a comforting dish that includes buttered baby marrow, Napoletana sauce, roast cherry tomatoes, chilli butter, crispy brinjal, Parmesan shavings, rocket, basil and melba toast – a playful spin on the Middle Eastern shakshuka, shall we say?

For a sexy and satisfying main, the green goddess salad of seared tuna steak with gem lettuce, baby marrow ribbons, pistachio nuts and cannellini beans, served with a herb yoghurt dressing and lemon vinaigrett­e and dill, is a fine option. Celebratin­g a special occasion? Order the sea bass for two. One of Le Parc’s signature dishes, it introduces an interactiv­e element when the waitron pours a decadent prawn thermidor sauce over the fish, served with new potatoes and greens. “It’s so good!” says Sasha. “It’s all about bringing the romance back into going out and dining.”

To the left of the restaurant, patrons and passers-by can peruse The Emporium and purchase bouquets of flowers from Botanicus, freshly baked breads and pastries, cutting boards, handmade tableware (which shoppers can have personalis­ed), soaps and candles, and a host of internatio­nal and locally sourced foodstuffs, from honey to olive oil and biscuits.

Elonah O’Neill’s 400-piece handfolded paper high-tea installati­on, hangs overhead, with a few elements individual­ly painted in gold leaf. It’s now double its original size and this iconic feature lends a dreamy quality to the shopping hub. Fans of Victoria Verbaan’s work will immediatel­y recognise the illustrato­r’s stamp on The Emporium’s menu and the oversized papier-mâché art inspired by her drawings – a 1.5 mtall croquembou­che and a vibrant bowl of fruit and flowers – both of which are for sale.

And then perhaps the most delightful element of the restaurant is encased in a custom-made cabinet by The Iron Banister – an unashamed dedication to the prized Assouline books – and now the largest collection in the country. The cool quotient is matched by the view of the Tshepo Jeans flagship store that flanks the restaurant.

Excellent service, noteworthy décor and world-class food aside, what Tashas always manages to get right is that elusive mix that turns visitors into regulars – an irresistib­le combinatio­n of comfort, elegance and downright indulgence.

It’s a rare find. W tashascafe.com; @tashascafe

“It always has to be the best or better. We made the bread a thousand times before Tasha was happy”

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Natasha Sideris at the newly revamped Le Parc by Tashas.
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SALAD
GREEN GODDESS SALAD
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