HOW TO GET ONE IN YOUR GARAGE

Autocar - - USED CARS -

An ex­pert’s view SCOTT CHIVERS, SELF­TAUGHT FER­RARI ME­CHANIC

“A 360 Mo­dena F1 has been my daily driver for al­most nine years. Us­ing sal­vaged parts, I con­verted it to a Chal­lenge Stradale: carbonfibre brakes, ex­tra power, 100kg weight re­duc­tion, the lot. I bought the car with 21,000 miles and now it’s done 70,000 and never put a foot wrong. It’s even on the same clutch. I’ve got 355s but the 360 is a huge step for­ward in terms of us­abil­ity and re­li­a­bil­ity. You have to drop the en­gine on the 355 to change the belts, but on the 360 you just re­move a panel be­hind the seats. Some parts are ex­pen­sive, though. For ex­am­ple, the wheel bear­ings are sealed in the hub, so you need new hubs – at £800 a cor­ner.”

Buyer be­ware… EN­GINE

An­nual ser­vic­ing is es­sen­tial and tim­ing belts must be changed ev­ery three years. Check for cam cover oil seal leaks and the en­gine un­der­tray for waste oil. En­sure tap­pet rat­tles go as en­gine warms up. Feel for hes­i­ta­tion pos­si­bly caused by fail­ing ig­ni­tion coils. Check for leaky in­take man­i­fold gas­kets and rat­tly in­take but­ter­flies. Check con­di­tion of en­gine mounts.

TRANS­MIS­SION

Check gear­box mounts aren’t bro­ken, al­low­ing the ’box to hang and changes to crunch. On the F1, look for leaks from the hy­draulic ac­tu­a­tors and check the trans­mis­sion con­trol unit’s clutch wear record. On man­u­als, check for clutch slip­page, a notchy change from third to sec­ond and that the link­age bush below the gear­lever isn’t worn.

SUS­PEN­SION AND BRAKES

Lis­ten for noisy front ball joints. Wig­gle the steer­ing wheel to check tie-rod end play. Check both sus­pen­sion modes work. Feel for wan­der­ing due to in­cor­rect tyre pres­sures or ge­om­e­try.

BODY

Feel for kerb scrapes un­der the nose. Look for alu­minium cor­ro­sion bub­bling up and be­hind the un­der­trays for cor­ro­sion and dam­age. Look for un­even panel gaps and wheel arch dam­age from track days. Check for worn boot and door seals, loose door han­dles, foggy lenses. On Spi­ders, check for hood creases and tears.

IN­TE­RIOR

Check win­dow and lock­ing mod­ule isn’t cor­roded and that rub­berised trim isn’t sticky. Check door cards and that the in­stru­ment clus­ter lights up prop­erly.

Also worth know­ing

OE parts are of­ten rec­om­mended but deal­ers and en­thu­si­asts of­ten turn to Hill En­gi­neer­ing. Its re-engi­neered Fer­rari parts are claimed to ex­ceed OE qual­ity.

How much to spend £49,000-£59,999

Rea­son­able choice of coupés and Spi­ders with less than 50k miles and good ser­vice his­to­ries.

£60,000-£69,999

Low-mile, one-owner cars, those with full Fer­rari or re­spected in­de­pen­dent dealer his­to­ries the most ex­pen­sive.

£70,000-£84,999

Mint, fully loaded cars with sub-40k mileages and wa­ter­tight his­to­ries with all ma­jor work re­cently un­der­taken.

£85,000-£110,000

Ul­tra-low-mileage Fer­rari-ap­proved main dealer cars, oth­ers at spe­cial­ists.

£135,000 AND ABOVE

A few Chal­lenge Stradales up to £230k.

One we found FER­RARI 360 MO­DENA F1, 2000, 37K MILES, £59,980

This car stands out for its full ser­vice his­tory, de­cent mileage, right colour combo (red with cream leather), re­cent clutch and belts job, Chal­lenge rear grille and stain­less ex­haust. Badges on wings aren’t orig­i­nal but that’s a de­tail.

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