HOW TO GET ONE IN YOUR GARAGE
An owner’s view ALASTAIR CLEMENTS
“I first saw a Whizzkid when I was 13, and desperately wanted to buy it to do up, but my dad was having none of it. So when I was looking for an economical runabout a decade later, I got one. I loved that car and only sold it to buy an engagement ring. I missed it terribly but realised I had made the right decision when my new wife gave me another as a wedding present. I’ve still got it, 18 years later. It’s like a back-to-front Mini Cooper with even better steering. I’ve hillclimbed and rallied it, but since stopping the usual rampant rot, I’ve retired it to gentler duties. I’ve had four now and can’t see myself ever being without one.”
Buyer beware… ENGINE
This engine is hardy and very reliable if properly maintained. Condition is king, so ask how much work has been done on the engine and listen carefully for any unwanted noises. Check the ancillaries carefully, too, as these will be of a good age, especially the cambelt. Fuel pumps need careful maintenance. Exhaust manifolds and back boxes can cause trouble: the only access is through a small panel behind the rear seat and they are no longer available. Take any potential buy for a drive to make sure it doesn’t overheat or pump out blue smoke.
TRANSMISSION
This manual isn’t the most pleasant to use, although you can polybush the linkage, which helps. It’s known to be fairly strong, although clutches can wear quickly and are relatively pricey.
BRAKES
These likewise can be problematic and cost a lot relatively to fix. Discs corrode and are no longer available and the unservoed brakes, handbrake and rear-wheel cylinders can seize. Kits for the drums are hard to find. Check the hoses. Make sure the car doesn’t pull to one side under braking.
ELECTRICS
Although strong when new and of high quality, these can cause trouble now, due to the car’s immense age. Fires are rare but have been known.
BODYWORK
Rust could be the SC100’S middle name, alas. It can be a huge and toxic and terminal issue, noticeably around the sills, floorpan (check under the rear seats) and rear pillars, which are extremely difficult and expensive to repair. Also check the rear arches, front subframe mounts and door edges. Rear wings cost up to £2000, although Mk1 Ford Fiesta arches can be used, because the profile is similar.
Also worth knowing
There were some small differences in the bodywork between the Cervo and the SC100, the latter having square headlights and indicators in the grille.
In the UK, only one version was offered, the well-equipped GX, while other countries got a CX and a more luxurious CX-G. The GX came with a cigar lighter, reclining front seats covered with beige vinyl/cord and independent all-round suspension.
It had one update, in 1980, the dash and column switches being modified.
You would have to be very young and flexible to get into or out of the rear seats and immensely resilient to stay there for long or travel far.
Suzuki added ballast in the nose of the SC100 to compensate for its rearward weight bias. Still the front is delightfully skittish or horrendously light, depending on your point of view, although adding shims to the lower front strut mount can help.
How much to spend £1000-£3999
Some very nice buys at the top end here but check condition thoroughly. You need some service history and it’s well worth putting any potential purchase up on a ramp if you can. Many are imported Japanesedomestic-market Cervos.
£4000 AND ABOVE
Well restored, mostly rebuilt and ready to roll. Some imports here too.
One we found SUZUKI SC100 GX, 1981, 47,000 MILES, £3500
This has been stored for some years so needs light restoration. It runs and drives and is solid underneath, although the paint is poor and the brakes aren’t great. Its window trims were removed some years ago so the little bits of rust could be treated, and they’re included. So are quite a few spares, including a bonnet, a wing, a grille, engine parts, trim and badges.