BBC Music Magazine

Music that Changed Me

Wine critic Jilly Goolden

- Interview by Claire Jackson

Jilly Goolden is a wine critic, broadcaste­r and journalist. For 18 years she co-presented BBC Two’s Food and Drink series where she attracted acclaim for her unorthodox and expressive descriptio­ns – characteri­sing a Gamay as ‘like trainers on hot tarmac’ – and earning her a place in Radio Times’s top 40 most eccentric TV presenters of all time. As one of the nation’s best-loved wine connoisseu­rs, she now runs tasting courses (winedays.co.uk) from her home in East Sussex.

When I was growing up I had a lot of music around me – my father used to fill the house with his LPS. We had a recording of Saintsaëns’s Carnival of the Animals with verses by Ogden Nash and I remember absolutely loving it. And as a teenager I discovered Handel’s Messiah, which I would listen to interspers­ed with The Beatles – my big love affair with Handel’s music began with the soprano solo that begins Part III of Messiah, ‘I Know My Redeemer Liveth’. At that time, my understand­ing was that classical music had to be sad. I thought the pastoral stuff was naff; I felt that you needed to be on the verge of tears for the music to talk to you.

I spent my late-twenties living alone in a little cottage in a remote part of the countrysid­e. It confirmed forever my passion for nature and sparked my lifelong love of rural life. ELGAR’S Chanson de Matin for me is the embodiment of everything bucolic, and I discovered that gorgeous happy piece of music around that time. I suddenly realised that music didn’t necessaril­y have to be tragic to be emotive. If I ever had a down moment I would listen to this piece and it would highlight the joy of the countrysid­e, whatever else life threw at you.

I went to GERSHWIN’S Porgy and

Bess at English National Opera and Glyndebour­ne. It’s not the greatest opera, but ‘Bess, you is my woman now’ is marvellous. The Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald version is a permanent fixture on my play list. I love ballads – again, embracing the tragic side of music.

My parents were not keen on opera – I remember them coming back from a performanc­e and saying what a dirge it was. So I’d always had this suspicion that

I wouldn’t like it. In fact, I got straight in with Wagner and did the Ring cycle first: it was a baptism of fire and I worked hard to engage with it all. After that, I discovered the ease of loving Puccini and Verdi. I live near Glyndebour­ne and go as often as I can to see production­s there. Before it was developed and was more of an ‘at home with the Christies’, you could hear the opera from the organ room without buying a ticket. As a 20-something I heard many operas that way. But I first heard HANDEL’S Rinaldo from a paid seat, and fell for ‘Lascia ch’io pianga’ from Act II.

It’s up there with ‘Bess, you is my woman now’ for sheer mournfulne­ss.

I got very interested in last year’s Opera Cup at Glyndebour­ne and attended various stages. I had my money on the American baritone Edward Nelson who went on to win it. I have a thing for the bass-baritone voice, and I think VERDI’S Simon Boccanegra shows it off brilliantl­y. I expect that Nelson is too young for the role at the moment, but I would love to hear him as the lead in that opera one day.

I also love Rachmanino­v, particular­ly his piano concertos. I loved No. 2, and then I came to know No. 3 from Shine, the 1996 biopic about the life of pianist David Helfgott. I had learned the piano when I was little, and I still play a bit. I also used to sing – although I think my children would probably prefer me not to these days! It’s one of those things I keep intending to revisit again. I must have a strange form of dyslexia because I find reading music very difficult. I’d love to be able to sit down and play instinctiv­ely or from a score, but instead it takes me a long time to learn chord by chord, note by note; but then I remember it forever.

For my final piece, I’ve gone for SAINT SAËNS’S Organ Symphony No. 3 – it’s so thundering and powerful in that finale.

It’s incredibly stirring and so far removed from Carnival of the Animals.

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