Panel tasting: Spain’s Bobal
Widely planted in Spain’s southeast, Bobal has a name for rather rustic reds. But refinements in production and enlightened marketing mean its fortunes are shifting, says
59 reds and rosados tasted
Five letters. Easy to pronounce, easy to remember: Bobal. What more could a grape variety want for success? Well, in the case of Bobal, quite a lot. It flourished across the highlands in southeastern Spain, but the wines that reached international markets were seen as varyingly alcoholic, or rustic, or both. Grudgingly, they were approved for their lusty, full-flavoured, full-coloured rosados. Despite that, they never escaped the third-class mould.
Bobal is a variety with potential, much still to be realised. What it needs is care and attention. One theory has it that the name of the variety comes from its appearance, similar to the shape of a bull’s head ( bovale).
Individual bunches can weigh as much as a kilo, but may be uneven in weight across the bush. The added problem with this high-yielding vine is that the medium-sized, thick-skinned berries ripen unevenly within a bunch, giving green flavours.
This certainly helped to foster its reputation for rusticity, as did its tannins, which need careful management, and its potential to create high alcohol levels.
Changing tides
However, things are looking up for Bobal. The fact that this is the first panel tasting for the variety at Decanter is a reflection of that. Some of the change is a result of marketing: Utiel-Requena, a heartland of Bobal, has been busy talking to the outside world.
Traditionally, the Bobal production zone was dominated by cooperatives and bulk wines. It’s only in the last two decades that private wineries have blossomed. El Terrerazo, a
singular project from Bodega Mustiguillo, has built an international reputation as a Vino de Pago (single vineyard), winning medals –including a DWWA Trophy – for its Bobals. This was undoubtedly another driver for Bobal.
The transformation in Bobal’s reputation is obvious in Ribera del Júcar. The DO reports that, as recently as 20 years ago, some 10% of the Bobal vineyard was uprooted, losing, ‘sadly, the oldest vines’. Today, it works with
Manchuela and Utiel-Requena on joint projects to preserve and recuperate the variety.
It’s now possible to seek out single-vineyard expressions. Some producers highlight their particular soil types; some are reining in their use of oak. A few are using amphorae. In fact, with a pH at about 3.35-3.50, producers are showing that the ‘difficult’, ‘rustic’ Bobal can be immensely adaptable, producing long-lasting reds, fresh rosados and sparkling wines.
Bobal is Spain’s third mostplanted variety, with 62,000ha, after Tempranillo and Airén.
Utiel-Requena DO Created 1957. An hour’s drive inland from Valencia city, located on a plateau 600m-900m above sea level. The DO is named after the two towns of Utiel and Requena. Climate favours organic growing. In production terms, Utiel-Requena dominates the Bobal leaderboard. Vineyard area 32,567ha, of which 67% is Bobal. 40% of the vines are older than 40 years.
Manchuela DO Created 2004. In Cuenca province, between Utiel-Requena and Ribera del Júcar. 600m-1,100m above sea level. The land is carved out between the rivers Júcar and Cabriel to its north.
Vineyard area 11,622ha
Total volume 768,400hl, of which 72% is red. Bobal, the leading red variety, accounts for 41% of red production.
Ribera del Júcar DO Created 2003. In Cuenca province, at an altitude of 650m-750m. Vineyard area 6,700ha. Bobal accounts for 34%.
El Terrerazo Created 2010. Valencia’s first Vino de Pago, at the edge of the Utiel-Requena DO, 800m above sea level. Organic, 87ha on limestone.
Sarah Jane Evans MW is one of three DWWA Co-Chairs and the author of The Wines of Northern Spain
‘Bobal is a variety with potential, much still to be realised’