A taste of the top southern Rhônes
Wines are listed by commune, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. Some 2019s are not yet bottled, hence some prices, stockists and alcohol levels are not yet known. Contact your regular specialist merchants for latest prices and en primeur offers
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
1 Alain Jaume, Domaine Grand Veneur La Fontaine 96
£65 adVINture, Earle Wines, Bibendum Wine, Georges Barbier, H2Vin
North-facing Roussanne planted on clay limestone. Fermented and matured for 10 months in barriques, 50% new, 50% one year old. Very smart indeed – perfectly balanced, very fresh, great expression of Roussanne – it captures its power, shows its affinity with oak, displays its potential for quality and longevity. An extraordinary Roussanne, organic, with great freshness and authenticity. 4,000 bottles made. Drink 2021-2028 Alcohol 14%
Château La Nerthe, Clos de Beauvenir 96 Organically grown on sandy soils in the Clos de Beauvenir near the house, all fermented in demi-muid, then spending a further six months in it, with a small proportion spending six months in new barriques. There’s some dried pear and quince at its core, but the wine is dry and finishes long. Well-balanced acidity, and there’s enough concentration in the wine to give it longevity. A very classic expression, with toasted lime on the finish. The oak is handled well. A quintessential expression of white Châteauneuf. 1,200 bottles made. Drink 2021-2027 Alc 14%
Le Vieux Donjon 96
£ 36-£47.50 Bordeaux Index, Millésima, Yapp Bros
Pale coloured, the tiniest hint of pink. Delightfully fresh, floral, light and perfumed style, no artifice or oak on the nose. Medium-bodied, fluid and fresh. Good acid balance, vibrant on the palate, but firm. Expressive and very drinkable already, but should age with interest. Long, stony finish. Poised and balanced, savoury style. Drink 2021-2040 Alc 14%
2 TOP VALUE Domaine Julien Masquin, Montplaisir 95
Grown on sandy soils in lieu-dit Rayas, fermented then aged partly in stainless steel (75%) and partly in old barriques and demi-muids. Wonderful nose, so open and expressive. Very live and direct, really vivid and mineral. Very tight for now but it certainly wakes you up. Long, with citrus-skin bitterness and pith on the finish. A very precise and sculptural wine. Julien Masquin is proving himself to be a master of white Châteauneuf. 1,500 bottles made. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 14.5%
KEY PRODUCER Château de Beaucastel, Hommage à Jacques Perrin 98
POA Liberty Wines, Montrachet
About 60% of the blend is from old-vine Mourvèdre from the Courrieux vineyard. Grapes are destemmed, fermented in tronconic wooden vats using natural yeasts after a brief cold maceration, with regular punching down. Shows the floral side of Mourvèdre: violets, aromatically lifted. Very silky, very stylish, luxurious but not opulent. Ripe, with great tannic finesse, amply weighted, but more about finesse than power. Very well balanced, almost drinkable already. It will age, not for as long as some recent vintages, but no matter – it’s still exceptional. Biodynamic. Drink 2023-2045
3 KEY PRODUCER Clos des Papes 98 £58.33-£62.50 (ib) Bordeaux Index,
Goedhuis & Co, In Vino Veritas, Justerini & Brooks, Laithwaite’s, Lay & Wheeler, The Holland Park Wine Co, The Wine Society, Uncorked
Vines are typically 30-40 years old, spread across 24 parcels. Matured for 12 months in foudres of at least four years of age. Bright and floral on the nose. Extremely fine tannins, almost imperceptible but very much present, give a strong base for long ageing. It’s perfectly balanced, long and deep – a rich but surprisingly classic vintage of Clos des Papes given the extreme conditions this year. Rich but bright, very complete and pure, with no excesses. Organic. Drink 2029-2045
4 KEY PRODUCER Domaine de Cristia, Chapelle St-Théodoric Le Grand Pin 98 £87 A&B Vintners
100% old-vine Grenache grown on sand in lieu-dit Pignan, no destemming, aged for 24 months in old demi-muids. Cooling, very fine style, but like a peacock’s tail on the finish. Long, grippy and structural, with perfectly ripe berry fruit. Saline, mineral, fresh, vibrant; impressive. 3,200 bottles made. Organic. Drink 2022-2041 Alc 14.5%
KEY PRODUCER Le Clos du Caillou, La Réserve 98
£71.67-£82.50 (ib) A&B Vintners, adVINture, Cru, H2Vin, The Wine Society
Grown on sand in lieux-dits La Guigasse and Pignan, destemmed, fermented in tronconic vats then matured mostly in demi-muid and a 10% portion in amphora for 14 months. Captivating, spice-led nose. Lithe, dynamic, athletic style. Very well balanced, focused, with great aromatic precision. The alcohol is gently warming on the finish, but this is nonetheless gorgeous. Biodynamic. Drink 2021-2033
5 SOUTHERN RHONE WINE OF THE VINTAGE KEY PRODUCER
Le Vieux Donjon 98
£ 27-£ 33 (ib) Bordeaux Index, Christopher Keiller, Farr Vintners
This traditional estate owns 18ha of Châteauneuf, with considerable plantings of old-vine Grenache. Fermented in concrete vats, then aged in concrete and old foudres. Very full-bodied, lovely sweetness to the fruit, very fine tannins and great freshness. Shot through with juicy, sweet, chocolatey tannins, great concentration – but very well balanced. Not heavy or aggressive. Stony minerality on the finish. The most impressive barrel sample of Vieux Donjon I’ve ever tasted, profound stuff. Drink 2025-2048 Alc 15%
KEY PRODUCER Château La Nerthe, Cuvée des Cadettes 97
The estate’s oldest parcels of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, organic, all grown on galets roulés and sand, partially destemmed, all co-fermented in tronconic vats, then matured for a year in foudres. Full-bodied, it has weight and presence but isn’t overly fat or gloopy. Firm but not austere due to Mourvèdre’s pliant tannic structure. Long, deep. Dry, savoury finish. Will age with interest. La Nerthe continues to excel. Drink 2023-2038 Alc 15.5%
TOP VALUE Domaine André Mathieu, La Centenaire 96
Vines planted on galets roulés and sand between 1890 and 1910, grapes fermented in stainless steel, then aged in demi-muids for 18 months. The oak is in the background, supporting the fruit. Very harmonious, very well balanced, very long. Great vibrancy and freshness, with berry fruits and a long, velvety finish. A soaring Châteauneuf. 3,000 bottles made. Drink 2026-2043 Alc 16%
Le Clos du Caillou, Les Quartz 96 £44.17-£45.84 (ib) adVINture, Cru, H2Vin Grown half on large pebbles, half on sand in lieu-dit Les Cassanets, destemmed, fermented mostly in concrete then matured mostly in demi-muid except for 10% in amphora. Deep liquorice and tarragon freshness. Voluptuous texture, very rounded and generous. Ends firm and powerful, a wine with plenty of presence. Long, squished blackberry fruits into the length. Very well balanced for a powerful wine. Organic. Drink 2021-2032
6 TOP VALUE Domaine Georges-Lombrière, Cuvée Marie 95
Established in 2014, this 5.5ha estate is in organic conversion, with some vines more than 100 years old. Aged in demi-muids for 12 months. Beautiful clarity and purity of fruit. Full and gentle on the palate with very fine tannins, not powerful but plenty of expressive fruit. Great tannic finesse. Tapered, long finish. A wine of exceptional elegance. Not loud, but balanced and satisfying. Plentiful stone-sucking tannins on the finish. Drink 2021-2033
TOP VALUE Alain Jaume, Domaine Grand Veneur Le Miocène 94
£ 35 adVINture, Earle Wines, H2Vin, Walker & Wodehouse
Grown on a mix of soil types, fermented in stainless steel, matured 70% in concrete, 30% in old barriques. Regal, fine, luxurious and opulent style of Châteauneuf. Classically styled, traditional blend that couldn’t disappoint a lover of the style. Symmetrical and precise. Stunning value for money. Organic. Drink 2022-2033 Alc 15%
7 TOP VALUE Domaine de Fontavin, Trilogies 94
From 40- to 80-year-old vines, grown organically. Rounded, plush, fresh, velvety. Good acid balance. Plum and violet, very fine tannins, a patina on the lips. Seriously vibrant, electric on the palate. A very impressive wine from Fontavin. Drink 2021-2034
Tardieu- Laurent, Cuvée Spéciale 94 Great intensity and freshness here, really vibrant, remarkably high acidity. Powerful wine, long finish. Exceptionally fine, smooth, polished tannins. The alcohol is high but it’s well disguised by the acidity and tannins. A serious wine that will impress when it’s ready. Drink 2025-2032
Gigondas
8 KEY PRODUCER Château de Saint Cosme, Hominis Fides 97
POA Gauntleys of Nottingham, Walker & Wodehouse
Grenache planted in 1902 on Miocene calcareous sand. Single vineyard. No destemming. 12 months maturation in French oak barriques: 30% new, 30% one year old, 30% two years old. Unfiltered. Seriously upright and skybound style, so much energy. Very long. It’s a seriously tannic wine this year, but elegant and fresh. A little spicy note accentuates its pep. Organic. Drink 2027-2042
Château de Saint Cosme, Le Poste 97 POA Gauntleys of Nottingham, Walker & Wodehouse
Grenache planted on limestone marl. Single vineyard. No destemming. 12 months maturation in French oak barriques: 20% new, 50% one year old, 30% two years old. Unfiltered. Extraordinary tannic structure for a 100% Grenache, with great intensity of fruit and salinity. Great driving freshness throughout. Extraordinary depth. Floral on the finish, violets. Organic. Drink 2030-2045
9 KEY PRODUCER Moulin de la Gardette, Ventabren 96
POA Gauntleys of Nottingham
A selection of the oldest vines of the estate (65-115 years old), organically grown on sandstone and marl, handpicked, whole-bunch fermented with indigenous yeasts. Matured in old foudres and demi-muids; bottled without filtration or fining. Star anise, cardamom, a little balsamic tang. Fresh fig. Full-bodied, cooling palate. Acidity is marked. Good freshness; tight tannic structure. Will gain complexity over time. Plenty of very fine tannins. Strong personality, but not aggressive. Drink 2023-2033 Alc 14.5%
10 KEY PRODUCER Domaine de Longue Toque, Hommage à Gabriel Meffre 95 POA Gauntleys of Nottingham
Selection of four parcels of the domaine’s oldest Grenache (more than 60 years old) from the lieu-dit Petit Montmirail at 200m, on sandy marls. Aged in demi-muids. Very full-bodied, lush and flowing. The acidity is quite marked here, the tannins opulent. Long finish, good sense of depth and richness. The alcohol is slightly raised, but it’s clearly a very good wine. A little balsamic touch to the fruit. Full-bodied, fresh, velvety. Drink 2023-2035 Alc 15%
11 KEY PRODUCER Domaine des Bosquets, Réserve 95
POA Liberty Wines
70% destemmed, then vinified plot-byplot. The Syrah is aged in recent-use (not new) barriques, the Mourvèdre in old barriques and the Grenache in larger barrels (mostly old) and concrete. Six months in concrete tanks after blending. Very full-bodied, harmonious blend, not as concentrated as the single-vineyard wines this year. Well balanced despite its enormous size. Long finish. Saturated with thick, fine tannins. The oak is prominent for now, but there’s enough fruit to match it. Will be good when it’s ready. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 14.5%
KEY PRODUCER Domaine du Terme, Réserve 95
20% whole-bunch, no oak, will be given four years of maturation in tank before bottling. Dark and brooding, sticky black-fruit coulis. Full-bodied, very well-worked tannins: they’re still very assertive, but this is only the start of its élévage, so should soften in time for bottling. Very powerful wine that will take time to come round. Alcohol is a little raised, but it’s very good indeed. Likely to be good value. Drink 2025-2038 Alc 15%
TOP VALUE Domaine la Fourmone, Le Fauquet 93
30-year-old vines grown up in lieu-dit
Petit Montmirail. A touch of rose and violet to the plum and damson fruit. Rich and generous palate, fresh, not heavy. Very well balanced, very fine tannins, and lots of them. There’s an inner sucrosity that reminds me slightly of Rasteau. Great purity. Organic. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 14%
Maison Gabriel Meffre, Laurus 93 Lieu-dit Pourra. Intense damson, plum, black cherry and their crushed stones. Very fine tannins, almost imperceptible throughout. The oak is present but well managed, contributing to the textural finesse, length and also aroma – there’s a touch of cola to the fruit, but it’s well integrated. Needs time. Highly impressive from Meffre. Drink 2023-2028 Alc 14%
TOP VALUE Domaine La Roubine 92 Lovely nose, lavender and plum, really transports you to the place. Rounded, soft, acidity is fairly low. Loads of soft, pliant, massy fruit tannin, it’s quite saturated. Very much of its vintage, and also of its place. Succulent and deeply fruited. Organic. Drink 2021-2025
Beaumes de Venise
12 TOP VALUE Domaine des Bernardins 93 £ 17 Christopher Piper, Quercus Wines
Blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 6% Marsanne, 5% Mourvèdre, 4% Grenache Blanc, no destemming. Immediately interesting on the nose, the herbs and flowers come first, thyme and lavender, then the raspberry fruit. Medium-bodied, good sense of freshness and definition to the fruit and structure, with good acidity and crispness of flavour. Fresh, savoury, delicious. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 14%
Domaine la Ligière, Les Garennes 93 This is lovely! The spicy Syrah really jumps out of the glass. Blueberries and smoke. Mouthfilling, fresh and vibrant with a lovely sense of tension. Dry, mineral, grippy finish. The best from Beaumes de Venise this year. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Very good value. Organic. Drink 2021-2027 Alc 14%
Cairanne
13 KEY PRODUCER Domaine Alary, La Jean de Verde 92
POA adVINture, H2Vin
Very full-bodied, deep and generous character. With a good sense of freshness in both aroma and texture, this has a little saline twang and a purity that make for a very drinkable white Cairanne. Organic. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5%
KEY PRODUCER TOP VALUE
Domaine les Grands Bois, Maximilien 92 POA Gauntleys of Nottingham
Aged in concrete for nine months, this has that Mourvèdre ‘black flower’ aroma – deep, dark, earthy yet floral. Soft and deep, very concentrated; just a little unstructured for this weight of fruit, but amazing concentration. Alcohol feels a little raised, but this has a sense of profundity. Very long, liquoricey finish. Organic. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 14.5%
KEY PRODUCER Domaine Roche, La Bousquette 92
From 120-year-old vines, some of the oldest in Cairanne. Strong liquorice side to the fruit. Very full and generous, with rich, deep fruit. Acidity is quite marked, very ripe tannins, not the finest, but certainly plentiful. Long, vinous finish. The alcohol is high, but doesn’t feel overly unbalanced. Deep, long, concentrated. Drink 2021-2027 Alc 15.5%
TOP VALUE Domaine de Dionysos, La Cigalette 91
Relatively fresh for a 2019 Cairanne, showing ripe blackberry, blueberry and liquorice notes. Medium-bodied, with juicy, well-integrated acidity. Lovely fine tannins and a good sense of flow and
direction. Very ripe and opulently fruity; the alcohol is quite raised, but this is better balanced than most this year. An estate that’s getting better and better. Organic. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14.5%
Rasteau
14 TOP VALUE Domaine Brusset, La Bastide 93
£ 19.95 The Great Wine Co
Destemmed. Flowing, ample, intense, generous style. The Mourvèdre works really well in this blend – it doesn’t have the hardness of Syrah’s tannins, which is a benefit in this vintage. Long finish, lovely sense of purity. Seamless wine, a real pleasure. Feels balanced, opulent, rich. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 13.5%
KEY PRODUCER TOP VALUE
Domaine La Luminaille, Garance 92 90-year-old vines, fruit destemmed. Vibrant menthol and rosemary nose. Fresh, fluid, not too thick or tannic. More gently extracted than most this year, and it really helps, producing a mediumbodied, very vibrantly fruity and expressive wine in a lovely herbal style, with thyme and lavender on the finish. One for early drinking. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 14.5%
TOP VALUE Tardieu- Laurent,
Vieilles Vignes 92
Fresh, defined berry fruits on the nose and palate, vibrant, clean and expressive. Very dark flavour profile, very well balanced. Good sense of depth and vinosity. A complete, well-made wine. Alcohol is a little raised but not unbalanced. Enjoyably chewy tannins. Drink 2021-2026
Vacqueyras
15 KEY PRODUCER Domaine le Sang des Cailloux, Un Sang Blanc 93
£ 30 A&B Vintners
Grenache, Clairette, Roussanne, Marsanne, Bourboulenc and Viognier. Matured in tonneau, foudre and 180-litre terracotta amphora. Perfect balance, gently oily, beautifully fresh. Gently mouthwatering. Slight alcohol warmth, balanced acidity. Gently saline, long, floral, honeyed finish, with a lovely citric bite. Drink 2021-2024
TOP VALUE Domaine La Ligière, Le Chemin Blanc 92
Blend includes 40% each of Roussanne and Clairette, 10% Grenache Blanc and 10% Viognier. Lovely clarity of aroma, very fat and full-bodied, but such beautifully authentic flavours: apricot, peach, tarragon, grapefruit. Very long on the finish, with very well-integrated oak. Organic. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE La Ferme du Mont, Le Rif 93 Incredible expressive nose, juniper, raspberry, blackberry, liquorice, resin. Very full-bodied, very yielding and fruity. Lovely sense of freshness and succulent juiciness. Long finish. Exuberant and delicious. Drink 2021-2027
TOP VALUE Le Clos de Caveau,
Fruit Sauvage 93
Freshly crushed black cherries and violets on the nose. Very fruity, vibrant, with a good squeeze of ripe tannin on the finish. Good length. Not overworked or excessive, very drinkable. Drink 2021-2023
Vinsobres
16 KEY PRODUCER TOP VALUE
Domaine Chaume-Arnaud 94
Pebbly clay limestone slope, grown at 250m-420m. Destemmed fruit, indigenous yeasts, fermented then matured for 20 months in concrete. 15% Cinsault in the blend gives great aromatic freshness and fluidity on the palate. Glorious nose: cherry blossom, raspberry, redcurrant coulis. Intense but not heavy, great sense of purity, with bright fruity acidity and very fine tannins. Drinkable, focused, precise. A sappy, balsamic herbal note brings it all together. Biodynamic. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 15%
Domaine de Montine 92
Round, fruity, juicy, with all destemmed fruit. Lovely driving, intense acidity, good salinity. Real freshness and direction. Very well balanced, very fresh. Oak is well integrated and doesn’t distract from the terroir. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5%
‘Naturally fresher terroirs, such as Vinsobres, are a good place to look for balanced wines this year’
Lirac
17 TOP VALUE Domaine Pélaquié,
Luc Pélaquié 91
Fermented and aged in recent-use (not new) 500-litre oak barrels. The oak brings a little cashew note to the aromatics, a little honey glaze to the apricot fruit. Full-bodied, but not overly fat or silky. Citrus bite on the palate helps keep the wine moving. Touch of oak spice on the finish. The oak is sensitively used, and it works well. Drink 2021-2023
KEY PRODUCER TOP VALUE Les Vignobles Assemat, Castel Oualou 91 Orange blossom, almond, kaffir lime. Rounded, very full-bodied, plenty of puppy fat, and the acidity is low. This is aromatically lovely, and it finds just enough citric character and noble bitterness to bring the wine back into focus on the finish. Lovingly presented, there’s no artifice here, just a very authentic white Rhône. Drink 2021-2022
KEY PRODUCER Château de Montfaucon, Vin de Monsieur le Baron de Montfaucon 93
Bourboulenc, Carignan, Cinsault,
Clairette, Counoise, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir, Marsanne, Mourvèdre, Piquepoul and Syrah all grown on large pebbles, co-planted and co-fermented in concrete. To be aged one year in old barriques, one year in concrete then two years in bottle before release. Gloriously fresh nose – there’s complexity waiting to appear. Very fresh on the palate, really vibrant and thrillingly textured. Long finish. This has genuine character, and it isn’t overextracted or overly alcoholic in what can be a tricky vintage. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 15%
KEY PRODUCER TOP VALUE
Domaine Coudoulis, Evidence 92 Smooth, concentrated, fresh berry fruits. This has a sense of finesse to the tannins, standing out among a lot of overextracted 2019 wines. Long, with concentrated forest-berry fruits flowing into the finish. Vibrantly fruity, juicy and flavoursome. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 15%
KEY PRODUCER TOP VALUE
Domaine la Lôyane 92
Bright, floral style, more attractive than most Liracs this year. Fresh on the palate, lively, not overly heavy or extracted like some 2019s. Good acidity; it’s grippy, but fresh and precise, not thick. Long finish. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 14%
Tavel
18 KEY PRODUCER TOP VALUE
Château d’Aqueria 92
£ 16.99 The Solent Cellar
45% Grenache, 20% Clairette, 15% Cinsault, 8% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah, 4% Bourboulenc, 2% Piquepoul Blanc. Gently perfumed style, soft, with a touch of inner sweetness. Very fine in texture, very well-balanced acidity. Long, red-fruited finish. Has a svelte, tapered shape. Silky and pure. Drink 2021-2022 Alc 14%
Domaine de la Mordorée, La Reine des Bois 91
£ 21.67-£ 23.95 Lea & Sandeman, Millésima Old-vine Grenache (60%), with 15% Clairette, 10% Cinsault, 10% Syrah and 5% Bourboulenc grown organically on the galets roulés of the Plateau de Vallongue. Macerated over 48 hours, fermented in stainless steel. Deep pink. Some genuine aromatic intensity: redcurrant, cherry, strawberry. Fullbodied, rounded, generous. Plenty of mid-palate weight, with a fresh touch to the finish, and plenty of fruit.
Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14.5%
Domaine des Carabiniers, Lunar Apogé 91 £ 15.40-£ 16.95 Davy’s, Tanners
50% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 15% Clairette, 15% Syrah, grown on limestone (lauzes) soils. Lovely expressive nose; raspberry and a touch of blackcurrant. Really intense berry flavour, sappy berry acidity and finishes long. Lots of intensity, very dry, with a good sense of direction. Biodynamic. Drink 2021-2022 Alc 13%
Vin de France
Definitely Red 91
By Andreas Lenzenwöger (pictured), who makes the white wines at Domaine du Pegau. From old Grenache vines grown on sand near Châteauneuf-du-Pape, all foot-pressed. Bright plum and blackberry fruit. Violets and aniseed on the nose. Herbal backbone. Medium-bodied but great grip and delineated tannins.
Lovely acidity. Deliciously textured; pretty punchy for such a lowly appellation. Drink 2021-2023
Stéphane Ogier, La Rosine 91
£ 14.50 Montrachet
Syrah vines planted in the 1980s and late ’ 90s. First vintage 2011. Has until recently been an IGP, but is now bottled under Vin de France because Ogier missed an admin deadline! The wine is still made the same way. Velvety, fresh, fruity. Good acidity. Very rich and lush vintage, but good structure. The alcohol is a little raised, but it’s very good. Drink 2021-2023