A taste of the Carretera Austral
Start early as you get ready to take on the Carretera Austral (Ruta 7) – one of the world’s most spectacular roads for driving. And today is all about the driving, so save the wine for your nightcap and fill your petrol tank as often as you can. You’ll pass alpine lakes, fjord-like estuaries, waterfalls and rainforests, but do get to Hornopirén promptly to catch the ferry (running daily at 9am: www.taustral.cl). Take in the views over four hours on the water and as you arrive to dock at Caleta Gonzalo. From there head south to Chaitén – an active volcano, which lay dormant for 9,400 years before it erupted in 2008, it is still steaming today.
If time is on your side, take Ruta 7 down south to keep on exploring Chilean Patagonia. Otherwise, skirting the edge of Corcovado National Park, head east via Ruta 235 and 231 towards the mesmerising valley of Futaleufú (pictured p92), known for its world-class rafting. Continue on across the border into Argentina*, heading to Trevelin, the Welsh colony best known today for being at the heart of Chubut’s cottage wine industry. Arrive in time for a nightcap at the bar of the Lodge at Trevelin (www.patagoniariverguides.com) and taste the wines of Contra Corriente (www. contracorrientewinery.com), the winemaking project set up by the lodge’s owners.
Where to eat Pack a picnic for lunch; eat at the lodge for dinner
Where to stay The cosy Lodge at Trevelin is not only a fisherman’s retreat; it’s also home to one of the more substantial vineyards in Chubut Local wines to try Contra Corriente
Touring tip * You’ll need a permit from the car rental company when crossing international borders. Check if they will give you permission and paperwork before agreeing to the rental.