Atkins’ pick: 10 English sparklers to try
1 Langham, Culver Classic Cuvée Extra Brut, Dorset NV 93
£27-£29.99 Widely available
Exquisite sparkler, from Langham’s own estate vineyard deep in Thomas Hardy country near Dorchester. The latest release is based on the 2019 vintage, 14 months spent on lees. Bone dry, but not sour in the least, it delivers light baked apple, fresh apricot and toasty notes and has the gentle, tiny but busy mousse at which this winery excels. Delicious with seafood, especially crab. Drink 2022-2026 Alcohol 12%
2 Exton Park, RB32 Brut, Hampshire NV 92
£36-£44 Adnams, Alexander Hadleigh, Exton Park, JN Wine, Mayfly Wine Co, Noble Green, Stone Vine & Sun, The Oxford Wine Co, Wine Direct Single-estate RB32 is winemaker Corinne Seely’s reserve blend of 32 components from an extensive library of reserve wines. It’s wonderfully fresh and crisp, majoring on lemon zest and lemon curd with Chantilly cream and yellow apples and a twist of white pepper. Fruit comes from nine plots making up one vineyard on exposed chalky South Downs hills, and the wine has spent 36 months on lees. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 11.5%
Rathfinny, Classic Cuvée Brut, East Sussex 2018 92
£27-£30.99 Harvey Nichols, Lea & Sandeman, Selfridges, South Downs Cellars, The Oxford Wine Co, Waud Wines
With its bright, light golden hue, and array of enticing flavours – oranges and lemons, peach, mint and tea biscuits – the vivacious 2018 single-estate from Rathfinny shows great finesse. With its 30 months spent on lees, it’s the winery’s best release yet. From a south-facing slope of chalky soil in the South Downs. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 12%
Sugrue South Downs, #Zodo MV Brut Nature, Sussex 92
£59-£62.50 Butler’s Wine Cellar, Grape Britannia, Hallgarten Wines, Hennings, Sugrue South Downs, Symposium
Based on 2014, reserve wines from 2009 and 2011, aged 48 months on its lees. Fruit comes from Dermot Sugrue’s two Sussex vineyards, and it’s aged in old oak barrels and stainless steel. Lovely vanilla pod scent, ripe yellow apples and a twist of lemon peel, distinctive creaminess, and a crisp, mineral dry finish. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 12%
3 Louis Pommery, England Brut, Hampshire NV 91
£33-£41 Gusto Wines, Hills Prospect, Majestic, Ocado, Slurp, The English Wine Collection
The first Champagne house to release an English fizz is on fine form with this third release, a whistle-clean, citrus-led brut, with a cocktail of tangerines, lemon and lime, crisp but balanced. Having been aged for 36 months on lees, this is one to chill for oysters. Fruit comes from a 30ha vineyard planted in 2017 in New Alresford, near Winchester. Drink 2022-2024 Alc 12%
Nyetimber, Tillington Single Vineyard Brut, West Sussex 2014 90
£94.99-£113 Berry Bros & Rudd, Grape Britannia, Jeroboams, Justerini & Brooks, Lea & Sandeman, Nyetimber, Slurp
Huge potential as the Tillington 2014 still tastes remarkably young, despite eight years since vintage and 48 months on lees. There’s a white blossom scent, then lemon peel and shortbread, plenty of acidity and a hint of mint. One for a special birthday or anniversary, perhaps. Cellar and enjoy in five to 10 years’ time. Drink 2024-2035 Alc 12%
Bride Valley, Dorset Crémant Brut, Dorset 2018 88
£32.99 Alexander Hadleigh, Bride Valley Vineyard, Glug, Lea & Sandeman, Philglas & Swiggot, The Dorset Wine Co
A frothy, pale gold fizz with crunchy green apple, a nutty hint of almond, pears and light creaminess from 24 months of lees ageing. ‘Crémant’ as it’s bottled under slightly less pressure than Bride Valley’s other sparklers. Easy-drinking, even in its youth, and highly enjoyable. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%
4 Busi Jacobsohn, Rosé Extra Brut, East Sussex 2018 91
£38-£39 Busi Jacobsohn, Cépage, Harvey Nichols, Just Perfect Wines, The Champagne Co, Yapp Bros Salmon-pink, single-estate rosé from the excellent, warm 2018, the second vintage release from Busi Jacobsohn’s exciting young winery near Crowborough. This is a treat; having spent 18 months on lees, it has a fine mousse, featuring Victoria plum and red apple fruit, a tart nudge of red cherry sorbet and a light almond note. Food-friendly; try with seafood sushi. A winery worth watching as it develops its wines from a 5ha vineyard in the High Weald. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 12%
5 Camel Valley, Pinot Noir Rosé Brut, England 2019 89
£29-£39.99 Camel Valley, Castang Wines,
De Burgh, Old Chapel Cellars, Padstow Wine Co,
The English Wine Collection, The Wine Society, Vinoteca, Waitrose
Lovely plush, ripe, slightly peppery aroma, flavour more lifted with fresh raspberry, red cherry and a dab of lemon sherbet. With fruit from Cornwall, Essex and Sussex, this was left on its lees for 18 months. Pour with lightly spiced prawns, peppery charcuterie and ham. Drink 2022-2024 Alc 12.5%
Flint Vineyard, Charmat Rosé Brut, Norfolk 2021 86
£24.99-£26.99 Bakers & Larners of Holt, Berry Bros & Rudd, Flint Vineyard, Grape Britannia, Vino Gusto Strikingly different and fun – a deep cerise Norfolk fizz made via the Charmat (tank) method, like Prosecco. Produced using six varieties from two vineyards, it’s bursting with juicy, tangy cranberry and red cherry fruit, the refreshing tartness balanced by 11g/L dosage. Soft bubbles. Perfect for a picnic or summer party. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 12%