Other Nebbiolo denominations
Giacomo Conterno, Nebbiolo d’Alba 2019 95
This is the first release of DOC Nebbiolo d’Alba from Roberto Conterno. The grapes come partly from Serralunga and partly from Roddino. Harvested on 1 October and aged for three years in big oak, it is a delicious Nebbiolo with elegant strawberry, tar, milk chocolate and classy violet. Bright fruit on the palate is combined with dense tannins. Dusty on the mid-palate, it's austere yet with a lifted mint and nutty chocolate finish. Drink 2022-2029 Alc 14.5%
Giacomo Fenocchio, Nebbiolo, Langhe 2020 94
£21.50 The Oxford Wine Co If signs of a good vintage begin with the earlier-drinking wines, Giacomo Fenocchio’s Langhe demonstrates how promising 2020 is. Vinous, with bright cherry kernel notes, it has a sweeter character in the mouth with peachy, slightly confected flavours. It then becomes surprisingly savoury, with velvety, crunchy tannins and brilliant acidity woven in a bracing integration. Drink 2022-2029 Alc 14.5%
13 Bartolo Mascarello, Nebbiolo, Langhe 2019 93
£50 (ib) AGS Vintners
Maria Teresa Mascarello says this is
‘vinified like a Dolcetto, not like a Barolo’, explaining that this Nebbiolo is not made as a by-product of Barolo production. The idea is to recover the pleasure of drinking young and fragrant wines. It displays an almost sour cassis aroma, with pepper and savoury strawberry notes. In the mouth it shows zesty red fruits and firm yet ripe tannins, with a slightly austere finish balanced by delicious sucrosity and savoury length. Drink 2022-2029 Alc 13.5%
Bruno Rocca, Fralù, Langhe 2020 93
Despite not being fully ready to drink due to the still evident oaky character, this is ambitious and the quality of the tannins impressively elegant. Brilliant acidity glistens alongside bright pomegranate, overlaying restrained smokiness. This seems to be a baby-Barbaresco in the best sense. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14.5%
14 Garrone, Prünent Superiore, Valli Ossolane 2019 92
Prünent is a biotype of Nebbiolo developed in Alto Piemonte’s Val d’Ossola. Here, old ungrafted vines, some more than 200 years old, are grown using the ‘toppia’ training system (a type of pergola). This is a bright ruby wine full of strawberry vibrancy, with dried flowers, blood orange and integrated tar depth. The firm acid, almost aggressive now, carries the finish with ripe tannins and savoury length. Drink 2022-2029 Alc 13.5%
15 Azelia, Nebbiolo, Langhe 2020 91
£11.67 (ib) Justerini & Brooks
Vinous and fresh, this Langhe from Lorenzo Scavino is light and – if we look for any flaw – relatively low in concentration. The grapes come from the younger vines of the estate in Serralunga and Castiglione Falletto. The strawberry fruit aroma, alongside a savoury dried cherry finish, is sustained by crisp acidity and crunchy tannins, making it amazingly perky and drinkable. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14.5%
Monchiero, Nebbiolo, Langhe 2020 90
£16.95 Mr Wheeler
Fruit from Roddi, Verduno and Treiso will complement La Morra – and obviously Castiglione Falletto, where the winery is based – to produce this Langhe. A fiercely traditional wine, with 18 months’ ageing in big oak vessels. It has restrained cherry and black pepper aromas and concentrated, supple fruit. Full and slightly volatile, with firm yet integrated tannins and refreshing acidity. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14%
Mura Mura, Mercuzio Nebbiolo, Langhe 2019 90
Mura Mura is the new estate founded last year in Costigliole d’Asti by talented entrepreneur Guido Martinetti and Federico Grom. Their Mercuzio Langhe Nebbiolo (with some Barbera and Grignolino in the blend) is very juicy and feminine, focused on impressively graceful rose water scents with vibrant strawberry fruit and a touch of graphite complexity. Velvety and ripe on the palate, it has delicate acidity balanced by savoury, tasty persistency. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 14.5%
Negro Lorenzo, San Francesco Riserva, Roero 2018 90
From the Monteu Roero MGA (see p52), this is a complex Nebbiolo with scents of wild raspberry eau-de-vie, not without elegance and depth. On the palate it shines for its fresh pomegranate fruit and a touch of black pepper with tar in depth. A relaxing drink due to its precise tannins and plenty of sucrosity, this is one of the best examples of Roero this year, even if it perhaps lacks some freshness. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 14.5%
Orlando Abrigo, Valmaggiore, Nebbiolo d’Alba 2018 90
Valmaggiore is a well-known Roero MGA where Orlando Abrigo owns 2.7ha on sandy and loamy soil. The vines for this Nebbiolo were planted between 1970 and 1990. A relatively simple wine that’s deliciously floral, with strawberry fruit brightness and a savoury finish. The tannins are velvety and just a bit austere on the finish, with crisp acidity and crunchy profile overall.
Drink 2022-2026 Alc 14.5%