Cristaldi’s pick: six Sam Kaplan wines to try
1 Arkenstone, Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley 2019 92
£75 (ib) Four Corners
Organically farmed, the 94% Sauvignon Blanc and 6% Semillon components were blended after 11 months’ ageing on lees in a combination of concrete eggs and new and used French oak, then aged for an additional 18 months before release. Very aromatic, showing pithy grapefruit, pear and flint along with garrigue-like wild herbal characters. The same flavours are concentrated on the medium-bodied, sinewy palate, framed by good acid grip. Drink 2022-2028 Alcohol 14.8%
Arkenstone, NVD Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2018 98
£75 (ib) Four Corners
This 100% Cabernet is sourced from vines in Pritchard Hill, Howell Mountain and Calistoga. Aged 22 months in 75% new French oak, it delivers heady aromas of cinnamon-dusted black cherry and ripe blueberry, an intriguing herbal note and ground espresso. The structured palate is plush with red boysenberries, savoury black olives, leather and a refreshing herbal note. It glides to a chocolatey finish, supported by fine-grained, sappy tannins. Drink 2022-2040 Alc 14.8%
Maxem, UV Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 2019 95
US$90-$100 B-21, Company Fine Wine, Meritage
This shows the immense power and dark berry concentration of the Calera clone of Pinot Noir allied to the freshness of the Sonoma Coast – like a dew-soaked pine forest on an early morning hike.
Flashy boysenberry, dried strawberry, fresh blueberry and sarsaparilla are supported by sinewy tannins on a long, creamy palate, which finishes with pops of cherry cola and rose petals. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 14.8%
Vangone, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2018 95
£150 (ib) Four Corners
Vangone’s estate vineyard sits on a plateau east of the Silverado Trail between Oakville and Yountville. In 2018, Sam Kaplan made just 300 cases of this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 32 months in new French oak. Packed with concentrated aromas of black fruits, tilled earth, cedar oak, pie crust and vanilla bean. Elongated satiny tannins support a spicy palate of blueberry, blackberry and graphite, with lifts of sagebrush and purple florals. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14.9%
2 Vida Valiente, The Movement Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 94
US$650/magnum vidavalientewinery.com
The second release of Vida Valiente, a partnership between Memento Mori co-owner Hayes Drumwright and his wife Susana, with winemaker Sam Kaplan and his wife Nancy. This 100% Cabernet was sourced from vineyards in St Helena and Oakville and aged 22 months in new French oak. Blackberry, cassis, graphite, soy, herbs and elegant vanilla oak spice on the nose lead to a weighty palate of buoyant spicy red and black fruit. Fresh acidity and featherweight tannins provide structure through the spiced chocolate finish. Drink 2022-2031 Alc 14.5%
3 Memento Mori, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2013 91
£272.34 Fine & Rare
Grapes for this flagship 100% Cabernet Sauvignon are sourced from Beckstoffer Dr Crane, Beckstoffer Las Piedras, Oakville Ranch and Weitz. 2013 was warm in Napa; typically Sam Kaplan manages to maintain balance even at high alcohol levels, but I found the alcohol overpowering here, particularly at room temperature, though it does still boast plenty of gritty texture and unfolds in heady layers of blackberry, plum and redcurrant fruit, with scorched herbs, coffee beans, smoked meat and notes of turned earth. Drink 2022-2023 Alc 15.2%
MORE CALIFORNIA
To see 10 more wines made by Sam Kaplan from Arkenstone, Maxem, Memento Mori and Vida Valiente, with notes and scores by Jonathan Cristaldi, go to