Decanter

10 years on: Payne’s pick of 40 top Bordeaux 2012 reds

Wines are listed by score, then alphabetic­ally by producer. Stocks and pricing shown will be subject to change – please contact your regular merchants for further details

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1 STANDOUT Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol 97

£120-£161 (ib) Christophe­r Keiller, Crump Richmond Shaw, Grand Vin, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet

A blooming bouquet backed by a splendid core of multi-faceted fruit give this real class, which Left Bank wines often lacked in 2012. The highest proportion of Merlot (87%) since the 1985 vintage, which thirdgener­ation owner Alexandre Thienpont described as a ‘glass of perfume’. Still improving. Drink 2025-2035 Alcohol 14%

STANDOUT Château Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion 1GCCA 96

£350 (ib)-£645 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Harvey Nichols, Jeroboams, Millésima, Montrachet, Sterling Fine Wines, Wineye

A beautifull­y balanced claret with a fragrant silky texture, fine backbone and length on the palate, promising a long life. Not a ‘big’ wine but a delicious one with class. Made in the spanking new cellar (inaugurate­d June 2011). Drink 2022-2040 Alc 13.5%

STANDOUT Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan 1CC 96

£316.67 (ib)-£528 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Corney & Barrow, Cru, Crump Richmond Shaw, Fine & Rare, Grand Vin, House of Townend, Montrachet, VinQuinn, Wineye

This is a gorgeous, voluptuous wine, sweet as a nut all the way through. Red fruits on the nose with hints of liquorice and coffee. The high proportion of Merlot (65.5%) brings extra richness. Drink 2022-2042 Alc 15%

2 STANDOUT Château L’Evangile, Pomerol 96

£110 (ib)-£166.67 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Crump Richmond Shaw, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Goedhuis & Co, Ideal Wine Co, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, Montrachet

Deep-coloured, with real Pomerol ‘flesh’ and structure: a wine that grows in the glass, showing its class as it opens up. It will probably benefit from two or three more years or early decanting. The property was replanting Cabernet Franc, so this is almost entirely Merlot. Drink 2025-2035 Alc 14%

3 STANDOUT Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan CCG 96

£162.50-£191.11 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Cru, Honest Grapes, Ideal Wine Co, IG Wines, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet, Richard Kihl, VinQuinn, Vinum, Wineye

Ripe roasted fruit with considerab­le extract and personalit­y. Full, powerful mid-palate and length of flavour. This benefited in 2012 from the property’s early-ripening terroir. Drink 2022-2042 Alc 15%

Château Margaux, Margaux 1CC 96

£358.34 (ib)-£550 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Cru, Farr Vintners, Millésima, Montrachet, Richard Kihl, The Surrey Wine Cellar, Wineye

By Margaux standards not a big wine, but beautifull­y perfumed. Finesse and length unmatched by any other property in the Médoc in 2012. Making 34% grand vin from a small crop with 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, the team at Margaux read this vintage right, doing something they can do better than anyone else. Drink 2024-2042 Alc 13%

4 STANDOUT Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 1CC 96

£358.34 (ib)-£590 Berry Bros & Rudd,

Bordeaux Index, Bowes Wine, Crump Richmond Shaw, Jeroboams, L’Assemblage, Millésima, Montrachet, Wine Raks

Real depth and individual­ity with a lovely core to the fruit and length on the palate. A pure and beautiful expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from a top-class vineyard. Drink 2027-2045 Alc 13%

STANDOUT Château Angélus, St-Emilion 1GCCA 95

£333 (ib)-£590 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Cru Wine, Crump Richmond Shaw, Hatton & Edwards, Honest Grapes, Ideal Wine Co, Millésima, Montrachet, VinQuinn, Wineye

Exotically perfumed, packed with ripe and lushly textured fruit. This is a complete and showy example of great, polished modern claret at its best, when the owner was successful­ly pulling out all the stops to upgrade the property’s classifica­tion. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14%

Château L’Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol 95

£125 (ib)-£255 Appellatio­n Nation, Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Cru, Grand Vin, Honest Grapes, Montrachet, VinQuinn, Wineye

This showy wine with body and structure wowed a group of tasters who rated it higher than the first growths. Certainly a splendid effort, with smoky, ripe, concentrat­ed fruit, but a bit of a bruiser. Denis Durantou, who died too young in 2020 aged 62, was on top form at the time. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14.5%

Château Latour, Pauillac 1CC 95

£381 (ib)-£540 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Cru, Cru Wine, Crump Richmond Shaw, Honest Grapes, Ideal Wine Co, Montrachet, Nemo Wine Cellars, Richard Kihl, VinQuinn, Wineye

High-grade Cabernet Sauvignon that still remains a touch austere, with freshness and less polish than the Mouton Rothschild 2012 tasted at the same time, but with similar staying power. Latour’s 2011 vintage was the last that it made available via Bordeaux’s traditiona­l en primeur system, so this 2012 was only released by the estate for the first time in May 2020. Drink 2027-2045 Alc 13%

5 Château Figeac, St-Emilion 1GCC 94

£118.34-£148.83 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Crump Richmond Shaw, Goedhuis & Co, Hatton & Edwards, Montrachet, Veblen Wines As ever with Figeac, this will benefit from longer ageing than most because of the proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in the blend. These give distinctio­n, freshness and length to the flavour but also tannin, which needs time to soften. A wine that grows in the glass. Drink 2025-2040 Alc 13%

Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac 1CC 94

£550 (ib)-£850 Widely available With 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, this still has a strong tannin backbone, balanced by an elegant fragrance that is Lafite’s hallmark. Bottles have varied, however, so it loses a point. Drink 2030-2045 Alc 12.5%

Château Margaux, Pavillon Rouge, Margaux 94

£153.17-£180 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Crump Richmond Shaw, Grand Vin, Montrachet A true younger sibling of the first growth, this well-known second wine offers a finely scented bouquet and creamy palate in 2012. Proper Margaux finesse that persists on the palate. Ready now. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%

6 Château Montrose, St-Estèphe 2CC 94

£64.17 (ib)-£135 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Christophe­r Keiller, Cru, Cru Wine, Crump Richmond Shaw, Fortnum & Mason, Honest Grapes, Justerini & Brooks, Montrachet, VinQuinn, Wineye

A proper grown-up claret that has uncompromi­sing but well-padded tannin and parity of fruit that still needs five years more to soften. Drink 2027-2035 Alc 13%

Château Palmer, Margaux 3CC 94

£175.83 (ib)-£260 Bordeaux Index, Fine & Rare, House of Townend, Millésima, Montrachet

Rich, plummy fruit, with concentrat­ed flavour and considerab­le tannin that makes its developmen­t an unknown quantity. Will the elements marry? Keep for five years and hope. Drink 2027-2042 Alc 13.5%

7 Château Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux 2CC 94

£55.75 (ib)-£93.76 Albany Vintners, Berry Bros & Rudd, Christophe­r Keiller, Corney & Barrow,

Crump Richmond Shaw, Four Walls, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet, Salusbury Winestore

Intense bouquet of small, flavoursom­e red fruit and a precise, quite tight palate that will benefit from further ageing. Perhaps a little austere, but true; reflects the quality of the terroir. Drink 2022-2042 Alc 13.5%

Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan CCG 94

£65.84-£83.34 (ib) Albany Vintners, Bordeaux Index, Christophe­r Keiller, Cru, Farr Vintners,

Ideal Wine Co, Montrachet, VinQuinn, Wineye

A great example of modern winemaking with instantly appealing fresh, ripe fruit attack and sweet spicy flavour. The freshness will sustain this well, if not add extra complexity. By this point, more than 20 years of intelligen­t investment by owners Daniel and Florence Cathiard had paid off. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14%

8 Château Bélair-Monange, St-Emilion 1GCC 93

£63.34-£91.67 (ib) Appellatio­ns, Corney & Barrow, Cru, Ideal Wine Co, Latimer Vintners, Montrachet, VinQuinn, Wilkinson Vintners, Wineye

A warm and welcoming claret with attractive richness, elegance and length, but not the class of a better vintage. This was a work in progress for the Moueix family. Its well-placed property has soared higher since. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 14.5%

9 TOP VALUE Château BraneCante­nac, Margaux 2CC 93

£43.75-£56.91 (ib) Albany Vintners, Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Cru, Honest Grapes, Ideal Wine Co, Montrachet, VinQuinn

A beautifull­y fragrant, refined expression of the appellatio­n from a property that has grown in quality each year but remains fairly priced. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot. Drink 2022-2026 Alc 13.5%

Château Ducru-Beaucaillo­u, St-Julien 2CC 93

£105-£131.42 (ib) Bordeaux Index, Christophe­r Keiller, City Wine Collection, Crump Richmond Shaw, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet

Excellent fruit, texture and length on the palate. Lovely middle palate and finish.

This one shows class. Pity about the silly overweight bottle. Drink 2025-2040 Alc 13.5%

10 Château La Fleur-Pétrus, Pomerol 93

£150-£175 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Corney & Barrow, Crump Richmond Shaw, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet, Private Cellar, Wilkinson Vintners

Wines from this property have been gaining in complexity under scrupulous Moueix vineyard management. Quite powerful, rich and long, but short of the real class of a better vintage. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14.5%

11 Château Pichon Comtesse, Pauillac 2CC 93

£98.75 (ib)-£200 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Brunswick, Christophe­r Keiller, City Wine Collection, Crump Richmond Shaw, Millésima, Montrachet, The Champagne Co

Lovely creamy texture and supple fruit. Delightful, relatively uncomplica­ted claret of medium weight and charm that’s probably now at its best. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%

Château Saint-Pierre, St-Julien 4CC 93

£33.25 (ib)-£59.17 Crump Richmond Shaw,

Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, Montrachet

Textbook ‘cedary’-style St-Julien backed up by full plummy fruit. A very well made and enjoyable wine. The Martin family, owners since 1982, have made major investment in quality here, which has paid off. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 13.5%

Château Canon, St-Emilion 1GCC 92

£58.34 (ib)-£79 Berry Bros & Rudd, Crump Richmond Shaw, Farr Vintners, Montrachet, Salusbury Winestore, The Bordeaux Cellar Cabernet Franc has grown in importance here, representi­ng 30% of the blend, giving perfume and structure and creamy, well-balanced texture but relatively light body. Enjoy now. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14%

Château Cos d’Estournel, St-Estèphe 2CC 92

£95.84 (ib)-£133.33 Bordeaux Index, Cru,

Crump Richmond Shaw, Honest Grapes, Millésima, Montrachet, VinQuinn, Wineye

Deep-coloured, richly flavoured claret with an immediate abundant ‘attack’, which rather fades away. This will undoubtedl­y keep well but will always lack the class of a more successful year. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14%

12 Château Léoville Barton, St-Julien 2CC 92

£50 (ib)-£133.95 Widely available

Stylish, sweet and fresh-tasting, this is midweight but well balanced and a good result in this vintage. 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 13%

Château Léoville Las Cases, St-Julien 2CC 92

£108.33-£146.67 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Christophe­r Keiller, City Wine Collection, Crump Richmond Shaw, Justerini & Brooks, Montrachet

Structured palate with deep-scented fruit and potential, but lacking the extra excitement and distinctio­n that this terroir can provide. Drink 2028-2040 Alc 13%

Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac 5CC 92

£75 (ib)-£175 Widely available

A solid-structured wine with blackcurra­nt Cabernet very much in evidence, though the blend contained the wine’s highest ever percentage of Merlot at 26%. Proper Pauillac but a slight trace of bitterness detracts. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 13%

13 TOP VALUE Château Meyney, St-Estèphe 92

£19.34 (ib)-£44.99 Bon Coeur, Connolly’s,

Crump Richmond Shaw, Farr Vintners, Frazier’s, Montrachet, Spirits24, Taurus Wines, The Wine Library Few, if any, non-classed growths have a better terroir or track record in recent vintages. Fragrant fruit, well balanced with a full, rounded flavour. Just right to drink now after 10 years. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 13%

Château Pichon Baron, Pauillac 2CC 92

£87.50 (ib)-£220.07 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Christophe­r Keiller, Crump Richmond Shaw, Montrachet

Bright, fresh Cabernet attack that’s well supported with sweet blackcurra­nt fruit. A well-balanced claret that will last well but misses the magic and complexity of a better vintage. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 13%

14 Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac-Léognan CCG 92

£41.67 (ib)-£72 Berry Bros & Rudd, Curated

Wine Collection­s, Harvey Nichols, Lay & Wheeler, Le Vignoble, Montrachet

Fresh and still firm (tasted from magnum) with good balance and velvety texture. Going by this sample, it will reveal more in three years’ time. Subsequent vintages have gained even more from the hard work in the vineyard. Drink 2025-2035 Alc 13.5%

15 TOP VALUE Château Batailley, Pauillac 5CC 91

£36.67 (ib)-£79.95 Albany Vintners, Berry Bros & Rudd, Christophe­r Keiller, Fine Wine Direct, Goedhuis & Co, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet, Red Fox Wines, Wilkinson Vintners, Wine Republic

This is a fine claret with plenty of charm. There’s pure, focused fruit character on the nose and the perfume carries through to the palate before the harmonious finish. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 13%

TOP VALUE Château Bouscaut, Pessac-Léognan CCG 91

£30.22-£35 Christophe­r Keiller, Four Walls, Montrachet

This has virtually equal proportion­s of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, with a distinctiv­e 5% Malbec adding fresh blue fruit, perfume and vitality. It’s a

well-run property that delivers great value consistent­ly. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 14%

16 TOP VALUE Château Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc 5CC 91

£19.17 (ib)-£43 Widely available

Open and inviting, this is an elegant and charming claret with a real touch of class. It’s not a big wine, but it’s accessible and a pleasure to drink. An interestin­g mix of grapes includes a majority 56% Cabernet Sauvignon and 36% Merlot with 6% Petit Verdot and a little (2%) Cabernet Franc to add interest; and good levels of production keep it at a sensible price. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 13%

TOP VALUE Château d’Aiguilhe, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 91

£22-£24 Divine Fine Wines, Hennings, Millésima, Montrachet, The Wine Society, The Bordeaux Cellar Warm and generous bouquet, well supported by sweet ripe fruit and good structure. As often, Stephan von Neipperg’s estate in Castillon offers great value. This 2012 is almost as good as the delicious 2001. Drink 2022-2025 Alc 14.5%

17 TOP VALUE Château d’Armailhac, Pauillac 5CC 91

£38 (ib)-£65 Berry Bros & Rudd, Crump Richmond Shaw, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, Montrachet Fragrant, scented and full of charm, but lighter than its richer stablemate Château Clerc Milon, which was tasted at the same time. This was a good vintage from the Mouton Rothschild stable, and the team there read it well. Remains good value. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13.5%

18 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, Pauillac 5CC 91

£41.67 (ib)-£83 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Cru, Crump Richmond Shaw, Hic, Honest Grapes, Ideal Wine Co, JN Wine, Millésima, Montrachet, The Huntsworth Wine Co, Vinarius

The sort of claret that tastes good young, middle-aged or old, keeping its purity of fresh fruit and refined silky texture. Not big but a joy to drink. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13.5%

Château Hosanna, Pomerol 91

£86.67-£129.33 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd, Corney & Barrow, Crump Richmond Shaw, Montrachet Fully mature and open, with the fragrance of Cabernet Franc in evidence. Elegant midweight claret, full of charm but short of depth of flavour. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14%

19 TOP VALUE Château Talbot, St-Julien 4CC 91

£47.67 (ib)-£72.50 Armit, Berry Bros & Rudd, Brunswick, Cru Wine, Lay & Wheeler, Millésima, Montrachet, MySomm, Richard Kihl

Scented, plummy bouquet and attractive sweet fruit with plenty of charm. A wine that is uncomplica­ted but enjoyable to drink. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%

20 TOP VALUE Château de Fonbel, St-Emilion GC 89

£20 (ib)-£33.95 Christophe­r Keiller, JN Wine, M Wine Store, Nemo, Richard Kihl, The Fine Wine Co A spicy, savoury yet fresh-tasting St-Emilion from Alain and Pauline Vauthier of Ausone. Majority Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Carmenère adding interest. Drink 2022-2024 Alc 13.5%

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