Savour a second growth: four to try from Léoville Poyferré

Château Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien 2CC 2016 98

£98-£125 Millésima, Montrachet, Mumbles Fine Wines, Waitrose Cellar, York Wines

A classic expression from the excellent

2016 vintage: 63% Cabernet Sauvignon,

29% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and the St-Julien signature characteristics of minerality, graphite, slate, wet stone, and juicy blackcurrant and plum. A touch of meatiness to the nose with bacon, green peppers and black pepper. Expansive in the mouth, yet also seeming perhaps on its way to closing down. Sophisticated and broad-shouldered, this has a soft attack but gives such depth on the mid-palate. Bold, powerful, lovely definition and concentration, all while being so refined. Drink 2027-2048 Alcohol 13.5%

Château Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien 2CC 2019 97

£70-£91.15 (ib) Bordeaux Index, Christopher Keiller, Cru, Crump Richmond Shaw, Farr Vintners, Four Walls, Ideal Wine Co, Justerini & Brooks, Montrachet, Nickolls & Perks

Complex aromatics, perfume and black fruits. Quite tannic on the palate, powerful yet carefully detailed with a core of liquorice-edged black fruit, dark chocolate and slate giving it a serious, gourmet and savoury feel right now. Lovely poise, though, its St-Julien class shining through with mouthwatering freshness. Energy and elegance. A standout wine with absolute distinction and plenty on offer. 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot. Drink 2027-2045 Alc 14%

Château Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien 2CC 2005 97

£85 (ib)-£146.67 Widely available The first vintage with Didier Thormann as cellarmaster. Very lively palate, really quite bright and bold. Alive and slightly linear with real tension still, an energy that shoots across the palate. Chewy tannins fill the mouth but are expressive and elegant, and you get such power and concentration. So drinkable, with such refinement, but also great depth. 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot. Only just starting to drink, but this is one to carry on ageing. Drink 2022-2042 Alc 13.5%

Château Léoville Poyferré, St-Julien 2CC 2003 94

£110.42 (ib)-£202 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Claret-e, Crump Richmond Shaw, Hedonism, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet, Richard Kihl, Vintage Fine Wines

A charming success without the markers of the hot 2003 vintage. Smells really lovely, with that burnt caramel note – cola, sour cherry, some bramble blackcurrant and dried flowers in the background. I love the texture, it’s really chewy – tannins, fruit and acidity well integrated and gently mouthfilling. There’s minerality on the tongue, soft cinnamon and turmeric spice with blackcurrant and blackberry fruits and a cooling, lifted finish. Excellent expression. A joy to drink now, and perfect with food: a fantastic 2003. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot.

Drink 2022-2036 Alc 13.5%