Soft gold in colour, packed full of generous stone fruit, nectarine and white peach, with honeysuckle, white truffle, saffron-laced lemon curd and bitter orange peel, all wrapped up in the satiny texture that makes drinking Yquem feel like the most indulg
2008HHH
Plenty of classic wines, particularly those from estates that waited to take full benefit of the Indian summer which allowed for long, slow ripening after a more difficult early season. Even the white wines did not really get under way until 15 September. This was also one of the rare years when en primeur prices came out at extremely reasonable levels due to the financial crisis that had erupted during the second half of 2008. Châteaux Lafite, Latour and Margaux released an opening tranche at €110 per bottle, with Mouton at €100, and Haut-Brion at €130, which still gave early movers a huge opportunity. Not everyone displayed the same restraint, but on the whole this was the last of the really affordable en primeurs.
7 Château Malartic-Lagravière, Blanc, Pessac-Léognan CCG 2008 94
£45.83 Millésima
A delicious 2008, singing with the salinity that takes pole position in older whites without sacrificing minerality or juiciness. It has flavours of white pear and finely drawn citrus, with the saffron-edged sweetness of age. 85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Semillon. Perfect for drinking now. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%
2009HHHHH
The decade signed off with an excellent year, rivalling both the 2000 and the 2005, but altogether different in style: more exuberant and easy to love from its first moments. Much of the growing season was hot and dry combined with fresh nights that encouraged good aromatics, and the wines themselves were richly structured. It has also proven to age well, and is now beginning to show the terroir characteristics that were sometimes missing in the early years. The more I taste it as it hits its second decade, the more I think 2009 just might be the modern-day 1982. Sauternes and Barsac also saw some excellent successes in this vintage. The biggest drawback? The prices, which saw huge rises on 2008 as the Chinese buyers came in strongly. This set up all kinds of problems for the following decade, but for now, back in 2009, it was smiles all round.
8 Château La Serre, St-Emilion GCC 2009 93
moueix.com
Soft ruby red in colour, this delivers plenty of signature limestone character. The fruit majors on blackberry, wild strawberry and softened raspberry puree, with clear salinity, giving a mouthwatering finish that gently holds on. A softer expression of this brilliant vintage, this is almost at the perfect moment for opening. The consultant was Stéphane Toutoundji. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc; 50% new oak. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 14.5%
Château Poujeaux, Moulis-en-Médoc 2009 93
£36.67 (ib)-£71.26 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Christopher Keiller, Cru, Crump Richmond Shaw, Four Walls, Hedonism, Honest Grapes, Ideal Wine Co, Montrachet,
The Sampler, VinQuinn, Wineye
One of the best-value 2009s you can find in terms of its ability to deliver signature Moulis-Médoc character without having to wait too long or think too hard. Dark bramble fruits, tannins that are now soft and melted, with layers of cigar box, mint leaf, crushed stones and saffron. No need to wait to drink but plenty to enjoy – and even better out of magnum if you can find it. 51% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc;
40% new oak. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 14%