The Kakaviatos six: St-Emilion estates fit to ascend the ranks

TO 1ER GRAND CRU CLASSE A 1 Château Figeac, St-Emilion 1GCC 2016 99

£209-£280 Widely available Refined and classy, like an Hermès suit all in place, balancing ripe black and cool blue fruit aromas with cedar echoed on the palate, which exudes succulent damson and tobacco leaf freshness. Powerful yet refined tannin balanced by alcohol and high acidity, freshness on the finish. The precision and focus from the 64% Cabernets in this blend makes it the best of the previous decade from Figeac: a superstar! Serve with only the finest of dishes. Drink 2025-2065 Alcohol 13.9%

2 Château Canon, St-Emilion 1GCC 2010 98

£130-£175 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Cru, Farr Vintners, Fine Wine Direct, Goedhuis & Co, Ideal Wine Co, Millésima, Montrachet Crystal-clear fruit aromas, black cherry, ripe plum and succulent blackberry, combining with artisanal dark chocolate, violet and fresh tobacco leaf, making this wine incredibly complex and still very youthful. Its layered and finely textured palate almost hides powerful density, with freshness to balance opulence, then a long finish. Serve with beef Wellington. Or cellar for 10 years for more tertiary flavours. Drink 2022-2065 Alc 15%

TO 1ER GRAND CRU CLASSE

3 Château Rochebelle, St-Emilion GCC 2019 96

chateau-rochebelle.com

With aromas of crushed mint, black cherry and ripe plum, this wine comes across effortlessly, with much grace and juiciness, minerality and wet stone. ‘Like a ballerina,’ remarked co-owner Emilie Faniest at the estate. The 80% new oak used for ageing is seamlessly integrated and the low 3.5pH lends freshness to the opulence. A magnificent vintage for this underrated estate. Quantities are limited, so you’ll need to contact the château to purchase. Drink 2022-2050 Alc 14.5%

4 Château Fonroque, St-Emilion GCC 2016 95

£30-£40 Albany, Cru, Lay & Wheeler, Montrachet Wet stone, floral and forest floor aspects invite the taster to a wine of finesse and refinement. A light touch of 30% new oak is fully integrated, with subtle spice, never dominating the wet stone freshness and tension on the mid-palate. Long finish. A wine of elegance rather than power.

Try with roast chicken and sweet potatoes. Drink 2022-2040 Alc 14.5%

TO GRAND CRU CLASSE

5 Famille Vauthier, Château Moulin Saint-Georges, St-Emilion GC 2015 95

£27 (ib)-£59.99 Berry Bros & Rudd, Christopher Keiller, Cru, Four Walls, Goedhuis & Co, Le Vignoble, Montrachet, Taurus Wines A revelation: at once sumptuous and pristinely balanced and focused – it puts some grands crus classés in the back seat. Bright and juicy blackberry and plum, suave spice, touches of wet stone complexity. The entire package has the structure to develop more complexity in your cellar, but why wait? Already gangbusters good now. A low pH of 3.5 (relatively higher acidity) balances the opulence, and 33-year-old average

vine age contributes to depth. Try serving with seared duck breast, roast potatoes and sauteed mushrooms. Drink 2022-2040 Alc 14.5%

6 Vignobles K, Château Tour Saint Christophe, St-Emilion GC 2015 94

£29.50 (ib)-£41.25 Christopher Keiller, Crump Richmond Shaw, Fine & Rare, Four Walls, Lay & Wheeler Excellent density, power and freshness here – and a step up from previous vintages tasted in a vertical in St-Emilion. This is the first vintage to include fruit from the newly acquired 6ha of largely limestone soils, and this adds another dimension to the wine. One experiences both warmth and grip – a good sign for further cellaring – but with lift on the finish that makes this clearly as good as many current grands crus classés. Fit for fine gastronomy, such as filet mignon. Drink 2022-2040 Alc 15%