GOTHENBURGSweden
Spring in Sweden brings a sense of freedom. Students have finished their exams for the year and the family holidays hover temptingly on the horizon. The 20 islands of the Gothenburg archipelago shrug off winter’s dark mantle with wildflowers blooming and seal pups being born. Sweden is the world leader for gender equality and Gothenburg’s many courtyard cafés buzz with latte-pappor (latte dads) nursing babies and cinnamon buns. University students lounge in the botanical gardens and well-dressed women cycle along the city’s 19th-century canals to chichi Haga. The food scene revolves around bounty plucked from the North Sea. Indeed, locals treat their seafood with an almost religious fervour, which is appropriate given that the fish market is housed in what looks like a church with a pitched roof and neo-gothic windows. In May,the word on everyone’s lips is mussels. The west coast’s cooler waters allow them to ripen slowly until they are plump and bursting with flavour.
WHAT TO DO
GöteborgsVarvet on 20 May is the world’s largest half marathon, comprising 64,000 runners. It starts in beautiful Slottsskogen Park, where the petting zoo with Gotland ponies reopens in spring. goteborgsvarvet.se
Majorna was once a working-class area but, as prices rise in the city centre, its traditional County Governor-style houses have become a haven for creatives. In May, 50 artists open their studios; you can see more of their work at a corresponding exhibition at the Röda Sten Art Centre. rodasten.com Walpurgis Night is an ancient Swedish celebration to welcome spring. It lasts from 30 April into the early hours of May Day, featuring a parade from Chalmers University of Technology students and bonfires to ward off bad spirits.
WHERE TO MEET AND EAT
Da Matteo is Gothenburg’s original cool café and is credited with introducing Italian-style coffee to the city. Head to the Vallgatan site’s sunny courtyard. damatteo.se
Gabriel’s is one of two restaurants in the Fish Church. Chef Johan Malm is Gabriel’s son, and the family has honed its relationships with fishermen to ensure it gets first pick. Don’t miss the creamy chowder. restauranggabriel.com
Tredje Långgatan is pedestrianised from May and its many restaurants are quick to colonise the extra space. Get down to the old Gothenburg Auction House where you can tuck into skagenröra (prawns on toast) and cocktails from Taverna Averna, which grows herbs on its roof. tredjelanggatan.se