OSLONorway
For Norwegians, there are two surefire ways to tell that spring is in the air. The first is the leathery smell of sprouting birch trees, which are often brought inside during April and May to reiterate the fact that winter really is over. The second is the abundance of crime stories that crop up on TV and in bookshops to correspond with Easter, a tradition that started in 1923. In Oslo, you’ll find locals devouring these paperbacks on benches in Vigeland Sculpture Park or over silky cappuccinos in Vulkan’s many refined cafés. Norway’s prosperous capital is as sophisticated as they come. It leads the coffee scene in Europe and is home to seven world-class museums and the Barcode Project, which has smashed boundaries in modern architecture. In May, however, its well-heeled residents opt for simple pleasures: trips to Nordmarka forest followed by tender lamb with new potatoes and wild garlic; and strolls along the harbour to see the sailing boats return to the Oslo Fjord after their long winter sleep. At Rådhusbrygge (pier) three, behind the City Hall, fishermen sell lightly boiled fresh shrimp, which locals demolish by the bagful in waterside parks, leaving the shells for seagulls to clear up.
WHAT TO DO
Bygdoy Vergne Peninsula is a romantic stretch that has belonged to the monarchy since 1305. Cycle through royal farmland and walk along the tide line on Huk and Paradisbukta beach. From April, you can reach the peninsula by ferry. National Day on 17 May commemorates the signing of the constitution in 1814. In Oslo, 60,000 children in bunads (national dress) march from Festningsplassen and Youngstorget to the City Hall, while the royal family looks on.
Oslo Medieval Festival between 26-28 May is a wacky time warp weekend held outside Akershus Fortress. Think jugglers, wandering minstrels wielding lyres and an open-air market. oslomiddelalderfestival.org
WHERE TO MEET AND EAT
Himkok is hidden in an old brick building on Storgata. Go for craft spirits in seasonal cocktails, served in the flower-filled courtyard. In May, try Fjellbekk-san: Himkok aquavit, sake, spruce syrup and elderflower tonic. himkok.no
Maaemo is at the forefront of new Nordic cuisine and was recently awarded its third Michelin star. Head chef Esben Holmboe Bang aims to capture the rugged nature and climate of Norway on every plate. In spring, this may involve dandelion leaves, new radishes, ramson flowers and mackerel. maaemo.no Solsiden nestles below medieval Akershus Fortress, just a few feet above sea level, and opens for the summer on 2 May. Feast on a platter of snow crab, lobster and oysters as you watch the sun sink below the Oslo Fjord. solsiden.no